any help first off would be appreciated...im stuck an hour away from my car and have to get a ride to work on it,ugh...but as much info as possible in the next 10 hours would be FANTSTIC as i have no wifi where im going...

its a 93 accord dx with 2.2 non vtech...driveing down the highway and timing belt broke...i replaced the belt and compression accross the cylinders is rock solid,whew,dodged that bullet,lol...but the dam think wont start...i know for a fact my timings dead nuts on,not my first doing this...

now i get a trouble code 14 from d4 light...i replaced the tcu a year ago and this is new...never did it before the belt break...i straight up have no spark...gas yes but no sparky sparky....i noticed my coil wire was trashed at the inside of the joint,so i shot down and got new wires thinking woohoo i got this sh*t...still no spark...O.o...

i have power to the coil no problem,and i just replaced the ign control module in the dist. a year ago (then found it was the tcu and replaced it)....question is where the heck do i go from here??? would the code 14 from the d4 be the cause of the issue of no spark??? couldnt see why but figured id ask...straight stumped and no money to dump dump dump and time is of the essence...so like i said as much info as possble...i already spent all day today probing wires and everything so far is looking good...just cant get spark...dist spins rotor is clean and contacts contact...i could use some icm volt/ohm testing strings to compare for tomorrow...i use to have them but are lost now...

only other thing i can think is maybe my front and back balance gears on the outer timing belt could be off alignment from tpc lineup...would that create a no spark fault or signal to the icm...i have no clue about those things at all...just figured one was oil pump and the otherlol

 

Guess I'm late for the 10-hours but here goes...

Did you miss connecting any hidden wiring plugs that you had to disconnect? Collection of ground wires at thermostat?

Not sure for 1993, but I think some of those wiring connections at the distributor are shielded. Have you shorted the signal to the shield when splicing?

I really don't think the balance-shaft timing is capable of causing your no-spark problem. That would just cause vibration after the engine is running. Neither one is connected to the oil pump - they're ONLY balance shafts.

 

thanx jim...ive come to the determination that theyer 2 seperate issues from the timing belt to the spark issue...the ballance shafts and timing is dead nuts on...i have power to the coil but still no spark...spent all day there again testing wires...i had a spare icm i tryed changing out and still no spark...its either going to be a wire problem at the ecu/tcu area or the coil...it had sat for 3 years with a bad windshield leak (over three years ago) and i had to do some rewireing for some bad wires where they ride along the floor board...but that was over three years ago and havent had any problems since...i did get a engine code 15 today which also leads me to think the coil is bad...maybe coincidence it failed at the same time as the belt...with the bad ignition coil wire i could assume that the strain of me driveing it lately cause the fail to the coil...i just hate throwing money at a problem...id rather be at least 60 percent sure...and im still not at that point...any thoughts...i redid the grounds on the car a week ago and they are all clean and sloid in place...i tested them with a light probe and all work...im going to have to get it on a trailer to get it home tomorrow...100 bucks says after i spend money on the truck and trailer to get it home it'll start right up...its my luck man....

 

i could use some ecu/tcu wire diagrams for further testing on it if anyone has a link to them...i had them years ago but are long gone...ima redo some of the wires conections i redid just incase...i did solder and heat shrink most the conections i redid but i saw 3 of the wires i replaced were just crimp conections...think i might have broke my solder gun at that time and use the crimpers...i dont like that so ima redo those with solder and heatshrink tubing...just to be safe since i have a couple voltage codes from engine and d4 lights...

 

I would check everything associated with the circuit from ECU out to the ignitor (ICM) because that would throw code 15. Then there's another circuit from the ignitor to the coil.

Some parts stores can test the ignitor for you. Call & ask. Then there's the coil. You can use a multimeter & test the resistance through the primary & secondary of the coil.

There's a sticky on top of the "DIY" forum area - something about download manuals.