I don't post much because my Accord just goes and goes and goes. My hot rod is another make - so I do most of my bench racing on my Chevelle Forum site. Here goes....

Short story. I was involved in a pretty bad accident back in October which wiped out the entire drivers side of my 1995 Sedan LX. I am the original owner of the car - never been in an accident of any kind until then. Everything except the b-pillar on the drivers side was destroyed, and replaced. I pulled junkyard parts and put the car back together myself (besides the quarter panel, which I had done on the insurance dime) - and so begins my issues. I kept the original door panels, switches, speakers, etc., and only had to replace the sheet metal.

The door lock switch on the drivers side only operates the drivers door now. same with the key - only drivers door responds. The passenger side will lock only the drivers and passenger door and not have any effect on the rear doors. Passenger side unlock has no effect on any of the locks.

I can rule out the drivers door actuator because that door works fine - it is how the drivers switch is connected to the rest of the door locks that seems to be the problem. Why the passenger switch does not work for all the doors is still a mystery also. So I guess my question is - how are all these door locks connected, and where might I look for the problem without by attrition, replacing hundreds of dollars of equipment piece by piece?

TJR
1995 Accord LX Sedan
Bordeaux Red Pearl - Basically stock with 17's
Scott AFB, IL

 

I just started a thread on my door lock problem, which is slightly different then anything I have seen. Here is part 2 - the window issue.

Recap: Short story. I was involved in a pretty bad accident back in October which wiped out the entire drivers side of my 1995 Sedan LX. I am the original owner of the car - never been in an accident of any kind until then. Everything except the b-pillar on the drivers side was destroyed, and replaced. I pulled junkyard parts and put the car back together myself (besides the quarter panel, which I had done on the insurance dime) - and so begins my issues. I kept the original door panels, switches, speakers, etc., and only had to replace the sheet metal and door internals. Door lock actuator from the junkyard piece was reused - and seems to be holding up fine. I bought an "OEM" window regulator (drivers door) off Ebay and was robbed when they shipped a knock-off Chinese part. I gave them bad feedback, and when they called to appologize for the mix-up and send me a Honda (which was BS) part I told them to stick it and the bad feedback was staying. So I am now using the Chinese (or Tiwainese) part. The issue...
My switch seems to be faulty - and I plan to replace it. But want to know how all these windows are connected electrically so I don't just start shotgunning parts to fix the issue. Sometimes, the drivers side window will go down a few inches and stop - not to work again until I put the car in drive and move down the road about 1/2 mile. It is intermittent - sometimes everything works, sometimes nothing works.
So - is the problem simply the drivers side switch or is there some other part I should be looking at also? I feel silly asking, but automotive electronics is not my strong suit. For the record - I plan to replace the switch and anything else the collective here thinks could be adding to the issue - including the Chinese regulator. Looking forward to hearing what y'all think...

TJR
1995 Accord LX Sedan, AT
Bordeau Red Pearl - basically stock with 17's
Scott AFB, IL

 

A Chevelle, what year?

 

oh, wait......you prob want to talk about the Accord


I'm going to bet/guess some wires going through the door jam got a bit of damage. Try this test and let us know what happens.....this is from the control unit and not the switch.

 

I have put these two together.....I didn't see the second one when I replied to the first .....I'm willing to be these are related so lets keep them together for now and knock one at a time out

 

Okay. Have it diagnosed more or less.
I took the door panel off, unplugged everything and plugged it back in again, plugged in the lock switch just to give it a try - and everything worked perfectly. I scratched my head for a second, gave it 10 minutes to get screwed up again - and tried it again. Worked perfectly. Put the door panel back on - everything stopped working aside from the drivers lock. Took everything apart again - plugged in the lock switch, and everything worked perfectly. So I set to locating what step resulted in the locks stopping working. Ready for this?
Seems as if the drivers door is ALL THE WAY open, all the locks work perfectly. When I move the drivers door just 3" closed, they stop working. Something is changing when I move the door just 3" - so it sounds like a ground to me. Probably somewhere torward the door brackets/pivot point of the drivers door. However, I cannot find one anywhere. Can anyone tell me where the grounds are in that drivers door, or what other diagnosis this points to?

Stumped.
TJR
1995 Accord 4-dr LX, AT

 

There are no grounding points inside of the door.

The wire harness goes though the door and into the car near the door hinge. I would guess that you have some damaged wiring near where that wire harness bends when you open/close the door.

 

Fixed it. Everything turned out to trace to a loose connection between the door and the car at the door jamb. I pushed and wiggled and felt them "seat" barely. Now everything works and I didn't have to buy a single part. I did have to fab up a new watershed from some 5mil plastic I had in the garage - that turned out to be the most difficult part.

TJR