Distributor seal
#1
Distributor seal
I posted this elsewhere but got no help, i have just noticed that I mught have posted it in the wrong area or alse I don't know why no one wants to tap this one tho more than 70 people have looked at it. Anyway, here it goes folks (ps:If this is the wrong forum for this one, please move it to where it should go, i honestly don't know much about the categories here, I don't visit the site as much)
I'm being told I need to replace the distributor cap, A job Im excited about doing myself since I have seen people change the cap not the seal. So befofore I get started cause tho I know more/less what to do I prefer to rely on the step by step know-how of people who have already tackled something like that. Do i need to completly remove the spark plugs from the dis cap? rotor? and also where exlatly is the seal, some drawings I have loked at point to two seals.
Thank for any help
I'm being told I need to replace the distributor cap, A job Im excited about doing myself since I have seen people change the cap not the seal. So befofore I get started cause tho I know more/less what to do I prefer to rely on the step by step know-how of people who have already tackled something like that. Do i need to completly remove the spark plugs from the dis cap? rotor? and also where exlatly is the seal, some drawings I have loked at point to two seals.
Thank for any help
#2
There are several seals on the distributor. If there is no signs of oil leaking, then all you need to change is the one between the cap and the distributor. The new cap will have a new seal with it.
To change cap, unplug one plug at a time from the cap and plug it into the same spot on the new distributor cap. Once done, remove three bolts holding the cap on and remove the old cap.
Replace the rotor while you are in there. It is held in by one bolt. Do not try to start the car with the cap off.
Put the new cap in place and bolt it in.
To change cap, unplug one plug at a time from the cap and plug it into the same spot on the new distributor cap. Once done, remove three bolts holding the cap on and remove the old cap.
Replace the rotor while you are in there. It is held in by one bolt. Do not try to start the car with the cap off.
Put the new cap in place and bolt it in.
#4
As long as you do not unbolt the distributor from the cylinder head, the timing will remain unchanged. All you need to do to replace the cap is to unbolt the cap.
A lot of this maintenance info is in a Haynes manual. You can pick one up for around $20. It will pay for itself the first time you do a tuneup.
A lot of this maintenance info is in a Haynes manual. You can pick one up for around $20. It will pay for itself the first time you do a tuneup.
#5
Hello and thank you for all the help. I also need to change the O-ring(I was told this because there is oil around the underside of the dist cap) So to change the oring, does the distributor need to come off or can i just slide in the oring?
#6
Distributor needs to come off. You'll see the O-ring in a groove around the end that sticks into the head. When that leaks, the oil will come out where the distributor attaches to the head, & run down the head.
If the oil is coming from INSIDE the distributor cap, then you need the internal seal inside the distributor. The stock story is that this is not replaceable - you need a new distributor. But... a couple people around here have dismantled the distributor & replaced it.
If the oil is coming from INSIDE the distributor cap, then you need the internal seal inside the distributor. The stock story is that this is not replaceable - you need a new distributor. But... a couple people around here have dismantled the distributor & replaced it.
#7
Yeah I had to replace the internal seal on my wife's car. 93 Accord. It was a piece of cake. I just made alignment marks on all the parts that I took off, distributor to engine block, rotor to shaft, and so on. Took me about twenty minutes to change. The seal is like $20, will have to order it online because the dealers don't sell that part, they tell ya you have to buy the whole distributor. Will try to find that website I got it from and post. Check this thread It's the one I started a while back when mine was leaking.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=22172
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=22172
Last edited by Randy367; 02-24-2009 at 07:27 AM. Reason: added link with same question
#8
#9
are we talking about the smae thing? My mechanic gave me the oring and charged me $2.00 bucks for it. this is the part i need to change, my only concern is the timimng once the distributor goes back in, I need specific suggestions as to how to put it back correctly. thanks
#10
There is an o-ring that can be changed, or a rubber grommet that seals the distributor in the housing. If there is no oil inside of the distributor, then that grommet does not need to be changed.
There are only two ways that the distributor can be installed, properly and 180 degrees off.
Before you unbolt the distributor, draw a line from the top of the distributor through the cylinder head. Next remove the distributor cap and note which direction the distributor rotor is pointing. Unbolt distributor and replace o-ring. Lubricate outside of the o-ring with a bit of engine oil. Make sure that the rotor is pointing in the same direction as before and push the distributor back into the cylinder head. Once the distributor is pushed all the way in, twist the housing, so you line back up with the original line that you made with the cylinder head. Tighten the bolts, screw the cap back on. Done.
There are only two ways that the distributor can be installed, properly and 180 degrees off.
Before you unbolt the distributor, draw a line from the top of the distributor through the cylinder head. Next remove the distributor cap and note which direction the distributor rotor is pointing. Unbolt distributor and replace o-ring. Lubricate outside of the o-ring with a bit of engine oil. Make sure that the rotor is pointing in the same direction as before and push the distributor back into the cylinder head. Once the distributor is pushed all the way in, twist the housing, so you line back up with the original line that you made with the cylinder head. Tighten the bolts, screw the cap back on. Done.