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Here's a picture of the hoses. Honda shares pictures with more than one model of Accord, so you car doesn't have ALL of them.
#17 & #18 are the heater hoses, they attach to nozzles on the firewall pretty close to the thermostat. If you are looking at hoses that have metal and rubber sections, you might be looking at the air-conditioning hoses.
Your car doesn't have an oil cooler, so hoses #13 & #14 won't be there. I think most of the other ones will be there.
Need to find out how much coolant/water total it will take to refill when done.
When you refill cooling system, unless you buy pre-diluted coolant, use distilled water ($1.25/gal, any grocery store) to dilute coolant concentrate.
If you use tap water or spring water you'll get scale precipitating out inside the cooling system. Been there, done that.
So my '92 Accord owners manual says coolant system capacity is - well, I just took photos for you. Luck
NOISE NOW at under 2 RPMS with the new belt/water pump
New timing belt and water pump are on and now THERE IS A WEIRD NOISE when driving slow, getting started.
It goes away once the car gets over 2 RPM on the gauge. It sounds something like a belt thwack. Not very loud, but does it every time.
Wonder if anyone has hear this after a timing belt/water pump replacement?
Trying to find out to report back to mechanic as the help I had lined up failed and I didn't feel confident enough to take on this size job on my own.
Son was tired of having no car while I tried to get to it, so decided to break the piggy bank and pay mechanic. He got it done for $400 by paying cash.
Can you rule out the external drive belts slapping around? Do you actually have to be driving? Or can you get the same sound by raising the RPM a little while parked with the hood open?
If you think it sounds like the new timing belt slapping something, check that out ASAP. You probably know its an interference engine & the valves could hit the pistons $$$.
Remove the upper timing-belt cover. You can run the engine with that cover off to watch what's going on.
The tensioner pulley with the spring attached has a small hole on the back bracket/tab at about the 1 o'clock position. That small hole sits on a stud/post on the engine block. That is the pivot point of the tensioner. It is an easy thing to miss when installing and remember it can cause a noise if small hole in the tensioner fell off the post.
The camshaft belt tensioner (#17) and the balancer belt tensioner (#10) are both locked in place by the nut #26 on the outside of the lower timing cover. The trick is, to turn the crankshaft just a bit forwards (counter-clockwise in this view) and allow the springs to pull the tensioner pullies. Then if you don't tighten that #26 nut fast enough, the belt can be left with too much slack.
And, the camshaft belt is tightened by its tensioner-pulley #17 moving upwards, while the balance belt pulley #10 moves downwards to tighten that belt. Moving in opposite directions, those 2 pulleys don't always slide perfectly well against each other. Those springs (#18 & #12) aren't very strong. Some people like to give the springs a little "help" by using a hook to pull up on the left side of the bracket on #17, at the same time reaching in with a finger to push down on the pulley #10. Then with your other hands(!) tighten the locking nut #26. (The pivot point that PA mentioned is not visible in this picture, it's hidden by the pulley #17.)
Take the long span of the camshaft belt #16 (left side of the belt in this view), and with your fingers try to twist it. It won't be perfectly tight, but you should not be able to twist it more than 90-degrees. After the new belt has a few hundred miles on it, you should check again in case the belt stretches a bit.
03-04-2021, 10:56 AM
