Thanks for coming back with the answer......too many times we never know the end of the story.

 

Well, I thought It was fixed. Just the other night I blew the fuse again. New alternator in the car.

I have yet to disco the ELD unit, trying that next.

Other then that eld unit, if its not a short I have no clue what it might be.

 

Any shifting causes the my 6amp breaker to trip. Decided that a circuit breaker would be the way to go. Everything checks out, the eld, fan module, evap, egr, mount, the thing left is the pcm.


So if someone could tell me should i just buy a computer?

Discoed both solenoids on the transmission and still had the same result.

Must be the pcm.

 

Are you positive you don't have any pinched wiring somewhere, possibly from a previous trans R&R? Inspect every harness on that circuit. Something may have gotten pinched during a trans R&R or the head R&R, although I'd lean towards the trans harnesses since you've had trans problems "forever."

 

Already done that. I even pulled out a multimeter and tested wires individually. The o2 sensor under the car was rubbing the heat shield, since disconnecting that the breaker has yet to trip. Why would it make a difference I have no clue, it is not even apart of the circuit. Still waiting for it to trip again.

New engine code though, p1758.

It wants me to look for a short in the harness between b4 and the lock up shift solenoid. I am worried about disconnecting the pcm, I have read some honda ecm/pcms have to be reflashed at the dealer once they are removed.
Should I be concerned about this since my car is a 96?

 

You can disconnect the PCM on your 96 without having to take it to the dealership. Your car does not have the immobilizer system, so any key cut the same will work on your car.

Try disconnecting the lockup solenoid and see if the fuse problem goes away.

 

I did, and before I disconnected the o2 sensor is when I tried that and the fuse still blew.

Just drove another 50 miles since that disco the secondary heated o2 on the cat, breaker has not tripped.

Car starting to run like complete dog ****. wants to stall just about every time I bring her to a stop. The quicker the stop the more likely it will stall out.

 

It is for sure the the Ho2 sensor on the cat. As soon as I plugged it back in, that circuit breaker tripped. Discoed, and the circuit is fine. The end of the o2 sensor ( wire insulation is still intact ) was literally digging a groove into the heat shield; grounding out the circuit in some fashion or another.


Car is idling like **** now, dumped some dry gas in it tonight. Hopefully I am just over complicating the issue and it is just simple stupid. I know for sure both those o2 sensors are bad. Anyone familiar with how an f22b2 would run without any heated o2 sensors?

 

The O2 sensor on the catalytic converter will not make your engine run poorly. That sensor just monitors the catalytic converter, nothing else.

The sensor before the catalytic converter is important to determine the air/fuel ratio. How do you know that one is bad? You may want to plug that sensor back in.

If the wiring is damaged on the O2 sensor, you can wrap it up in electrical tape as a temporary fix.

 

This bugs me. And not being satisfied using the 1994 wiring diagram PDF I downloaded from somewhere for working on my '96, I looked for an alternative. Found 1997 accord system wiring diagrams from the Common DIY Threads sticky, under Online manuals, the first link "http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/". The file is ABOVE Honda Accord 97 wiring zip.

'97, not '96, but at least it's OBD2. And nicer because each section is its own PDF. No more paging through a giant PDF.

Looking at the Power Distribution Circuit (4 of 4) PDF, the following feed off the output of 7.5A Fuse 4 on 2.2L LX sedans:

• RADIATOR FAN CONTROL
• ALTERNATOR
• GAUGE ASSEMBLY
• CRUISE CONTROL MAIN SWITCH
• EGR CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
• EVAP BYPASS SOLENOID VALVE
• EVAP CANNISTER SHUT VALVE
• ELECTRICAL LOAD DETECTOR UNIT
• SECONDARY HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR