Engine cranks, but wont start!
#1
06-02-2010 | 10:02 PM
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2
Engine cranks, but wont start!
Hello,
I have a 1991 accord ex coupe. i replaced the auto trans. and the engine oil pan. There was an after market alarm system that i removed, and the shifter assembly had been broken so i replaced with a good one from the scrap yard. Put new battery cables on. Tried to start car, and it only would crank over. The car ran before the transmission failed at 240,000. The car would start up and run before the transmission replacement. I checked for spark, and there was none. When i pulled the spark plugs, I noticed that they were covered in oil. I replaced the valve cover gasket and installed new plugs, cap and rotor. Wires were new. Tried to start, still no spark. Checked to verify 12 volts to coil, and it was there. Checked continuity through coil and it was within specs. Had the module checked, and it tested good. The local parts store had a distributor for 130 dollars, so I got it. Installed it and still do not have spark. But I do have 12 volts to the coil when key is in run position. What would be the next step in diagnosis.
Thank you,
Honda_gurlie
I have a 1991 accord ex coupe. i replaced the auto trans. and the engine oil pan. There was an after market alarm system that i removed, and the shifter assembly had been broken so i replaced with a good one from the scrap yard. Put new battery cables on. Tried to start car, and it only would crank over. The car ran before the transmission failed at 240,000. The car would start up and run before the transmission replacement. I checked for spark, and there was none. When i pulled the spark plugs, I noticed that they were covered in oil. I replaced the valve cover gasket and installed new plugs, cap and rotor. Wires were new. Tried to start, still no spark. Checked to verify 12 volts to coil, and it was there. Checked continuity through coil and it was within specs. Had the module checked, and it tested good. The local parts store had a distributor for 130 dollars, so I got it. Installed it and still do not have spark. But I do have 12 volts to the coil when key is in run position. What would be the next step in diagnosis.
Thank you,
Honda_gurlie
#2
06-02-2010 | 11:11 PM
Been Around A Long Time Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,754
From: In The Desert ( Sahara ? )
#3
06-03-2010 | 09:43 PM
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 102
Plugs covered in oil sounds serious. Usually with no spark, they would be covered with gas.
You have gotten close; 12v to the coil, module ok. Somewhere in that area the spark is not getting to the plugs. It could something as simple as a broken wire, or loose connector. Get a Volt-ohm meter; re-check voltages and continuity. Hang in there, keep looking. Check and re-check. Test the coil and module again. There were a couple times (when I was a mechanic) I put a clippy direct to the battery, as the worn ignition key cut off the power to the coil when in the START position. "Go figure".
You have gotten close; 12v to the coil, module ok. Somewhere in that area the spark is not getting to the plugs. It could something as simple as a broken wire, or loose connector. Get a Volt-ohm meter; re-check voltages and continuity. Hang in there, keep looking. Check and re-check. Test the coil and module again. There were a couple times (when I was a mechanic) I put a clippy direct to the battery, as the worn ignition key cut off the power to the coil when in the START position. "Go figure".
thankx
#5
06-03-2010 | 10:01 PM
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 15,988
From: Houston, TX
I think that he means the top of the plugs that connect to the spark plug wire were covered in oil. Replacing the 4 seals on top of the valve cover should have taken care of that problem.
You ruled out the ICM by having it tested. There is a grounding point under the distributor on the thermostat housing that you should clean and make sure it is tight. See attached pic.
A coil can pass resistance tests and still fail. The ECU could also cause this problem. If you still have no spark after you clean and tighten that ground, replace the coil.
You ruled out the ICM by having it tested. There is a grounding point under the distributor on the thermostat housing that you should clean and make sure it is tight. See attached pic.
A coil can pass resistance tests and still fail. The ECU could also cause this problem. If you still have no spark after you clean and tighten that ground, replace the coil.
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