Idle should probably be around 750-800 rpm. Be careful about Honda tachometers - the bottom of the scale is funny. First line is 500 even though it looks like the 0-500 interval is way WAY smaller than the 500-1000 interval.

I always thought the vibration should get much worse when you unplug it. But can't say firsthand since my 2003 was a manual tranny (didn't have the vacuum-operated mount).

 

Thanks for the continued help! My husband is going to look at the front mount better as he's betting that's the problem.

 

Dont mean to Hijack the thread...does the mount and vacuum apply to my 96?

My 96 vibrates kinda bad at idle sometimes,esp if theres a load on the electrical system...Its not constant,but usually when I use a window switch or something else electrical for a second or so.

 

It would apply to 1996, but ONLY for auto-transmission cars.

 

Hi,

I have the same problem with my ‘97 Accord V6 with vibration. I assume the procedure for testing the motor mount is the same for a V6? The previous owner had changed the front and side motor mounts but not the rear.

I did the procedure but there was no change in the engine vibration. The vacuum hoses are good. What would be the next component to check?

Thanks for your time.

 

Back up... several different cars here....

I'm not sure what year the vacuum-operated engine mounts started, maybe something like 1990. They were only used in automatic transmission cars.

Up through 2002, 4-cylinder auto-trans cars had the vacuum mount in the rear. Down low, sorta centered side-to-side, between engine & firewall. Difficult to see, PITA to reach & work on it.

Beginning in 2003 (with the K-series engine) the vacuum mount moved up front. That's for 4-cylinder auto-trans cars.

 

JimBlake

Should I start a new thread for the V6 engine?

Thanks

 

I just looked for the 1997 V-6. The rear mount is vacuum-controlled. So as far as that goes, it seems like it would be the same as what we've been talking about in this thread.



SO... You checked it & your vibration didn't change when you unplugged the solenoid valve #9? Follow the vacuum hoses back to the intake manifold. Got a vacuum gauge? Check to verify the hose IS getting vacuum?

Check whether the mount itself holds vacuum (got a MityVac)?

Does the solenoid valve work? Take a wire from the battery so you can force it open & close. Does it click? Check (MityVac?) whether it actually opens & closes.

The vacuum-operated engine mounts on all these cars basically work the same way. If any of these vibration problems take a completely different path unrelated to the vacuum mounts, that would be good to move to a new thread.

 

Hi,

Yes, my Accord V6 does have a vacuum motor mount. When I unplugged the electrical connector after the car was warmed up and in drive there was no change in the vibration.

I plugged a vacuum gauge and I got about 18 cu in of vacuum from the manifold. In the photo of the solenoid, the top hose ties into a "Y" connector. One end goes to the manifold and the other end goes off to the left. All hoses appeared fine.

I connected the top hose back to the solenoid. I then removed the bottom hose from the solenoid which goes down to a small diaphram at the base of the motor mount (see photo). I plugged the vacuum gauge to the solenoid and got vacuum. The hose of the vacuum gauge is a little larger the the connector on the solenoid. The vacuum as about 18-20 cu in. Though when I was pinching the neck of vacuum gauge hose around the solenoid to make a better seal the gauge did drop down to "0". Then it went back up about 18 cu in.

No, I don't have a mityvac but it sounds as if should get one, yes?

When you say take a wire from the battery are you saying run power directly from the battery to power the solenoid?

Thanks for all the help.

 

Yeah, run wires directly from the battery to power the solenoid, then check to see that it actually opens & closes. I don't remember if it's normally open (closed with power) or the other way around. That's to check if the solenoid valve works.

If you actually get vacuum down at the mount, you can do another check.
- while idling in gear (someone holding the brakes)
- disconnect the hose (plug the hose so the engine don't have a vacuum leak)
Does this cause a change in vibration? It should, if the mount is OK.

If both of these checks are OK (solenoid valve OK and mount OK); then we have to go looking for problems in the circuit.

PS...
This extra detail about how to do the tests, should apply equally on the different cars, even though the vacuum-operated mounts are in different places. V-6, F-series 4-cyl, K-series 4-cyl.