let me get this straight, the starter wont turn the motor over with the remote or the actual ignition right?

 

how many times did you spin that crank pulley? where in mesa do you live?

 

The remote will not turn the starter with the starter installed, but will turn the starter when the starter is removed. I turned the engine about one quarter of a revolution. I'm located about a half mile north of Reed Park.

 

it is located on the left side of frt console ( center console) on the bottom of the gear select

 

I haven't had a chance to check the shift lock system. But I did check continuity at the ignition switch. Here's what I got
Key @ 0: no continuity
Key @ I: less than 1 ohm between ACC (White/Black wire) and BAT (White wire)
Key @ II: less than 1 ohm between ACC and IGN2 (Yellow wire)
Key @ III: open circuit between BAT and ST (Black/White wire). I'm going to redo this test when its daylight so I can make sure I'm getting a good connection.

Question: If I jump the BAT and ST wires, should the starter turn?

 

i think you should pull all the plugs and spin the motor 2 full turns counterclockwise before you mess with the starter anymore. if it sticks anywhere dont turn it anymore.

 

Yes. The starter should also run if you supply battery voltage to the small signal wire at the starter.

So... If you jumper the BAT & ST wires, and it doesn't run, then you can look for a break in the ST wire between the switch & the starter.

But since you get an open circuit when you checked it, that pretty much says it's a bad ignition switch. (I think you can get the electrical part of the switch without buying the lock cylinder.)

 

OK, things I accomplished:
1) Checked the ST wire from the ignition switch through the fuse box, through the gear select switch, and to the starter. Good continuity throughout the circuit.
2) Checked the BAT wire from the ignition switch through the fuse box and to the battery. Good continuity through the circuit.
3) Pulled the main relay, removed the old solder and re-solder.
4) Removed the aftermarket security system (a simple splice in the ST wire with a fuse and a removable card that makes/breaks contact). After removing the security system, when I turn the key to start, now I get a click from the starter, but starter still won't spin.
5) Measured the voltage at the starter with the key in the "start" position. 12 Volts, no drops.
6) As someone suggested, I remove the spark plugs and spun the engine three (or so) times. So it definately isn't seized. Although the number two plug was covered in oil when I removed it.

So, in the morning, I'm going to pull the starter for the fourth time and take it to a different parts shop and have them test it. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

 

if you got good voltage at starter wire and at solenoid wire and it clicks ,, sounds to me like you got a bad starter........
I want you to try something,, have someone try to start the car,, when it clicks get a big metal bar, big screwdriver and bang on the starter a few times ,, if it spins you found your problem ( bad starter) ..
also if it is a bad starter,, replace it with a Honda starter do not mess around with non factory starter

 

I'll try that. Does the oil on the number two plug mean I've got bad rings?