Thanks all for taking the time to read this one..

I recently purchased a 1997 Honda Accord SE 2.2L NON VTEC, with 143K. I have put about 500 miles on it so far and its been running great other than shaking quite a bit at idle especially with the AC on. The transmission shifts a bit hard under any speed but I did show on the OBDII that the transmission speed sensor was not working. Anyway that's the quick about the car.

The issue is I went to start the car two days ago after parking it the night before and the engine just turned and turned but never lit. I turned it off stuck my head out the door and turn the key once and could hear the fuel pump prime and we had plenty of gas. I pushed her in the garage and let it sit over night. Woke up the next morning to troubleshoot and firstly tried to start it again, no dice just spun and didn't lite. I was able to recollect back to an issue I had with my Honda Passport 6 years ago where it sat for 8 months and when I tried to start it the timing belt had stretched enough to jump a tooth on the CAM and I had to replace the belt to get it running again (I was able to verify that by checking the marks on the belt before removal).

That was my first plan of attack on the Accord. Got the front cover off and noticed the Honda brand belt was real loose on each side of the cam like it was stretched or the tensioners weren't doing their job. I didn't, but could have slid the belt off the CAM if I wanted without loosening anything else. So next I took the crank pully off to find the marks on the gear behind it. I lined up TDC on the crank and the two marks on the CAM and they appeared to correct. I didn't check the alignment of the balancer belt. I figured I had it this far apart and have been wanting to change the belts anyway. I removed the timing and balancer belt and compared them to the new belts, the old belts looked pretty good, I tried to lay them on top of each other to see if one looked stretched out and held both in my hands while pulling on them but they appeared to be the exact length.

I lined everything up and installed the timing and balancer belts tightened the tensioners after spinning the crank a few times counterclockwise. Belts seem tight. I crossed my fingers and attempted to start the engine and it just cranked and cranked then realised I would need to connect the spark plug wires to the plugs for this to work (it was 4:30AM). Cranked it again and it sounded more like it wanted to start but it was hesitant too, gave it some gas and it fired right up. YES! I let it run for 5 minutes, turned it off and cranked it again normally and it fired right up, just like it used to.

My problem at this point is trying to figure out what the F is going on.. If all my marks were lined up on the old belt (never did check the balancer belt) but it wouldn't start and now it fires up with the new belt on the same marks what gives here? It's also strange to me that it would be a bit hesitant and not light without giving gas after the new belt was installed, to me it should have just lit.

Help me out guys anything would be appreciated...

 

The problem is likely something other than timing belt. You found no problem other than possible looseness (you should be able to twist 90 degrees, so it never should be accessory belt tight).

From your description, problem could be ignition switch (most likely IMO), coil, or ignitor. I suspect problem will return.

good luck

 

Are the ignition switches a popular thing to go bad on these? Do you know how I would go about troubleshooting that if this occurred again?

I wonder why I had to pump the gas during startup to get it to light the first time after replacing the belt.

 

Perhaps engine was flooded and pumping gas pedal allowed air to clear excess gas injected when ignition was dead.

Ignition switches are a common failure in Honda/Acura products.

If you notice whether gauge panel lights are on or off when no-start occurs, can indicate if ignition switch is bad. No lights means no power to panel and likely bad ignition switch assy. Also you can check for 12v on blk/yel wire to the distributor when no-start occurs. If 12V missing, the ignition switch assy is likely.

good luck

 

Is it possible there was a bad connection for the CKP/TDC sensor? That wire & plug are along the back-side of the lower timing cover. Just taking off that cover might have worked that plug so it's now connected OK??

 

That's not a bad idea. I do remember having to disconnect that plug and it wasent loose. Right before I took the car apart I did scan it with the OBDII. I didn't have any codes, you think I would have seen a code for it if it were the sensor?

 

A faulty sensor, connector or wiring will set a code.

good luck

 

Texashonda is that 12V yellow/black going to the distributor accessible from the under hood fuse block? Or do I need to take the cover surrounder off the steering column to get to that? I know when the incident occurred the cluster lights were lit (it was night) are you saying a portion and not all of the ignition switch could be faulty perhaps just the lead to the distributor?

 

No, if you're sure the oil, Alt, Check Engine Lights came on, then ignition switch did not cause no-start. This suggests ignition coil or ignitor. See following link for diagnostics. Honda Acura Starting Problems Repair Guide, Main Relay Locations

good luck