{1998 Accord LX 4cyl. Vtec 5 Spd.}

Yesterday I decided to clean the throttle body and the IACV on my car. I took it all apart and cleaned it. I used a spray named Brake Flush since I did not have carb cleaner/intake cleaner. I put everything back together but once I turned the car on the idle was more than 3k.

Before this, the car would already idle at 2k. The idle screw is pushed in all the way already. No check engine light. And there aren't any vacuum leaks. (Checked with Carb cleaner method)

The reason I decided to clean the parts in the first place was because my idle started randomly surging from 2k to 1k at stops. While driving when I would accelerate it would start hesitating and jerking once it started reaching 3k so I would shift right away to the next gear in each gear.

The night before my car started acting up, idle surging and jerking I fixed an exhaust leak between the EXHAUST MANIFOLD/DOWN PIPE and another between the DOWN PIPE/CAT. This is the only thing I can think of that started causing the surging/jerking.


I have attempted to reset my ecu by disconnecting the negative terminal and also by removing the slot #13 in the in-car fuse box.

I also tried unscrewing the idle screw all the way out and unplugging the TPS then screwing it back in all the way and hooking up the TPS again but it still idles really high.

This is the thing im referring to as the IACV, Im not sure if thats the right name for it.

 

Check and bleed the coolant.

From there if the idle does not change by the screw, be sure the "passage" behind the screw is clean? and the seal is still good.

More to come but a good pace to start............

 

Bled the coolant, well I put water for now till Im sure the car works perfect I will put coolant.

I unplugged the EVAP clip I believe and unscrewed the the idle screw all the way, let it run>plugged in the clip and turned the screw in by half>wait a little and again half and so on. Now my idle is at 2k where it has always been since i bought the car.

I replaced the VACUUM hose that connects to the top of the engine cover and One that goes from the throttle body straight to the driver side firewall.

Both of those hoses were thick black ones. Now my idle is at 1500, I haven tried driving it around yet, maybe it will shoot up?
I have see that in 96 and older accords there is some type of fast idle valve that is an easy way out but newer accords dont have it so I dont have an EASY BUTTON on mine
Is there anything else I can try? Im about to see if my vacuum hose are plugged in right according to this link.

| Repair Guides | Vacuum Diagrams | Vacuum Diagrams | AutoZone.com

 

Looking at the vacuum diagram there is a hose that goes to a "vacuum tank". I dont have that?

 

Looks like it might be on the firewall, but not sure...
It's for the cruise control, so maybe it's integrated into the C-C system?

 

My car was custom set-up when i bought it so maybe they took it out because it's not where it shows it would be at on that diagram. It also has an aftermarket fuel filter that one hose goes to. On the diagram it doesnt show a hose going to a fuel filter, just to the fuel pressure regulator.

After driving it yesterday the idle went back up to 2k from 1500 once i drove it for a bit. As soon as i pulled out in first i felt a sort of lag-type feeling. I would accelerate, it would go and then there would be a type of lag.

 

Check the throtte plate and ensure it is completely closed in the idle position

 

If there's a hose that's open, you need to plug it. If you can't find that reservoir, make sure the hose isn't just being a huge vacuum-leak.

 

Actually I heard that is bad because there is no other way for air to go inside aside from the idle screw. My idle is adjustable now after cleaning everything to have to do with the intake and replaced all the vacuum hose.

BUT the screw holding the throttle plate in a certain position fell out and I guess ive been driving since yesterday like that and my car has been jerking eratically in low speeds. Good thing the IDLE screw was screwed out most of the way or there wouldnt have been another way to suck air in since the plate was shut all the way.

Im trying to figure out how open the plate should be now.

 

You DO want the throttle plate to be completely closed. The idle-control system counts on the idle-screw being the path for air.

The mechanical stop-screw is supposed to just barely keep the throttle plate from wedging stuck closed.

Check out my thread over in DIY -
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/