Failed MFR versus ECU versus Fuel Pump?
#31
This is the easiest way to jump voltage to the fuel pump.
Plug in the connector in the trunk.
Unplug the main relay electrical connector. Jump the red/wht pin to the blk/yel pin using a piece of wire. Turn the key to the II position. That should keep the fuel pump turned on the whole time the key is in the II position.
Plug in the connector in the trunk.
Unplug the main relay electrical connector. Jump the red/wht pin to the blk/yel pin using a piece of wire. Turn the key to the II position. That should keep the fuel pump turned on the whole time the key is in the II position.
#32
Okay, PA, so if I'm understanding you correctly, once I jump those two and turn that key, then the pump should whirr/sound the ENTIRE time that key is turned, right? So at that point, if I wanted to confirm, I could actually get out of the driver's seat and go back to the trunk and physically listen, right?
#33
...So I go back, put the fuel relay back IN (removing the jumper wires, of course). This is a NEW fuel relay. Got my helper out there, told them to turn the key to "II" (on). ...with the same testing procedure as above at the fuel pump -- got NOTHING. Maybe 0.4 volts.
#35
Thanks in advance.
#36
By the way, what's to stop me from at least TRYING to start it and see if I can run it a bit? I'd like to, if nothing else, move it around a bit to keep the tires from dry rotting, get the fluids to circulate a bit, etc.. Opinions?
#38
Plug everything back in. Pull the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse for a minute (this will clear all codes). Turn the key to the II position. Wait for the check engine light to turn off, then try to start the car.
After you tried this, then check for codes. It takes 5 minutes to check for codes.
After you tried this, then check for codes. It takes 5 minutes to check for codes.