Yes, plug in all electrical connectors. The MFR sends power to the fuel pump and the injectors. I also think it sends power to the ECU.

Reset the ECU by pulling that fuse. Turn the key to the II position and listen for the fuel pump to turn on for about two seconds. Then try to start the car once the check engine light turns off.

Check for codes after this.

 

Alright, here's what happened, and now I'm going to pull codes regardless, but. . .

Pulled the jumper, replaced the OLD MFR. For sure, this time, when I turned the key to "II" I heard the fuel pump. Now that I know what I'm listening for it's easier to detect. I waited until the CEL went off, this concurrent with the fuel pump prime cycle stopping as well. Sat there and said a quick prayer and then turned the key. For the first time in a week, I actually got a little kick, but never a catch, it never completed the cycle; but it did actually do more than just turn the motor over. However, after THAT, it never caught again. Interestingly enough, ALSO, after that the fuel pump wouldn't ever prime cycle again. I'd turn the key off and then back on to "II", but never got the prime cycle again. Is it possible that this thing can read just based on a few cranks of the engine, and disarm the fuel pump based on some faulty code?? Weird.

At that point I realized I'd forgotten to plug the fuse for the back up back in, so I plugged it back in -- same deal. At this point I've pulled it back out to re-set again, just to see what happens.

Like I said, at this point I'm going to brush up on this code pull section, maybe give it a shot tomorrow. I've taken the battery off for the night, going to charge it on the trickle charger overnight.

Thoughts or opinions? Thanks in advance.

 

I think that the problem is with the ECU. The 94-97 accords are old enough now that they are starting to have problems.


Where did you get the MFR? Is it an aftermarket part?

You may want to take a look at the old MFR solder joints to see if any are bad.

You can watch this video to see what I am talking about.

 

Yeah, PA, I was wondering if somehow I'd been had. . .I knew where you were going with the MFR. . .was wondering that myself. When I LOOK at the old one versus the new, it WOULD appear that the solder joints are bad, certainly compared to the new one they LOOK different; that, and when you look at the board of the old one, there's discoloration, almost as if there had been arcing on it. No burn marks, but sure as heck some discoloration that looks like there'd been heat distress there.

Just so I know, the "ECU" is short for. . .what. . ."Electronic Control Unit??"

 

ECU is the engine control unit. It is the engine computer.

 

Alright ya'll, here's the info I got. I found the connector behind the glove box, straighforward procedure, pulled it, jumped it, and here's the sequence(s) I got. Keep in mind this is with the NEW MFR in place, key turned to "II".

CEL -- STEADY ON. Never turned off.

D4 -- seemed to come in 4 distinct "packages", each separated by about a 2 second pause. Hopefully this would make sense. Blinking D4 as follows:

1st sequence: 8 shorts.
2nd sequence: L-S-S-S
3rd sequence: L-S-S-S-S
4th sequence: 1 short.

Then the whole batch would start again. Again, CEL was STEADY ON this whole time. No blinks, no nothing.

By the way, just for the record, my VIN is: 1HGCD5628RA108298.

Now I'm confused. What would the blinking D4 have to do with the engine? I thought this was a transmission light??

Thoughts or opinions? Thanks in advance. . .

 

That is a code 8, 13, 14, and 1.

Code 13 and 14 point towards a faulty ECU.

Turn the key to the II position and check for 12V at the blk/yel wire at the distributor just to rule out the ignition switch.

See this thread, because you have the same codes.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...t-codes-49528/

 

Just curious; what does the 8 and the 1 point to??? Thanks so much PA.

 

By the way, PA, real quick, that thread you linked is right down the line my problem as well, of course. I did want to say -- is there any way to "bench test" that ECU once I get it pulled, before I go replacing it?? Of course, this is basically a computer, right?

 

It is a circuit board in a metal case the size of a book.

You can remove the ECU and open up the metal housing. Look for capacitors that are bulged at the top or are leaking a black grease like substance on the bottom of the circuit board.

Take a look at this site for a TCU problem with bad capacitors. FYI, TexasHonda (a moderator on here) had a bad ECU, but didn't notice an obvious problem with his circuit board.

1991 Honda Accord Transmission Control Computer Unit Repair