Are you absolutely sure you're hearing the fuel pump run. It should buzz for 2-3 secs and go off w/ the CEL. From the video I see the CEL going off, but could not hear the pump (too faint).

I had a fuel pump that would "hang" and fail to run, until I tried the key again. Sometimes, hammering the pump w/ on/off/on/off on the key would induce the pump to run. It was getting voltage, just stuck in one position. New pump fixed problem.

good luyck

 

Thanks guys.

First of all, i am a cheapo trying to fix this myself, i got the car for $1800, so if i have to go through a few parts before i manage to find the right one, i wont be too pissed off. Besides its an internet forum, not much i could do.

I do have a voltmeter with ohm measurement, just tell me where to test.

Also, while i can not speak for the quality of the pump or any such thing. I definitely hear it run smooth during the time the CEL is on, so i am pretty sure that is not the problem.

 

Sorry if i sounded a little snotty in that last post.

It got dark out for today but tomorrow i can test the ICM, ignition coil and ECT with the ohm/voltmeter and see if any of them have problems.

I do have the shop manual but the pictures are hit or miss most of them being for the V6 engine, at least for these repairs. Do you have any links to pictures showing what these parts even look like? sorry for being a newb.

 

The ECT is on the end of the head under the dist, it is the two wire switch.........for the future, the one wire switch goes to the gauge.

You'll measure the resistance over a temp range.

The ICM is inside the dist.......the coil, pretty sure on yours is is external coil.

 

Here are some random pic's....not my car, just ones other members have posted over time. The first is under the dist from the front of the car - you see the two switches, two wire is the ECT.

In the second, the external coil is the two wire plug at the top.

 

ok, starting with the temp sensor first, are you suggesting to test it while running and starting the vehicle to test the range of ohms, or to drain some coolant and take it out and heat it up some other way?

Basically i am asking, if i disconnect the connection to test it, will the vehicle run correctly? Or it does not matter very much for one time.

 

Either really.

Me, I would pull it. Yes this means you will loose coolant and have to refill and bleed the system. I'd put the sensor in a pan/glass of cold water and test it. Then either heat the pan on the stove (yes the wife hates it when I cook parts on the stove ) or transfer it to a glass of hot water - measuring the resistance thru all of this.

If you do it while on the car.....you will set a code since it won't be connected.

 

In this post from my friend Adler you can see where he was testing a cooling fan switch....pretty much the same for the ect but again you are testing resistance from cold to hot.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-repair-50615/

 

The location makes testing the ECT on the car pretty much impossible. The ECT sits pretty high; less than a gallon of coolant needs to be drained to remove it without making a mess.

I suspect professional techs have wired plugs to fit the various sensors in their toolboxes just for testing sensors on the car.

 

hi again. Got out to attempt to take it out today but the connector itself has the clip on the other side and i can not seem to get it off. Is it usually necessary to remove the entire distributor to access this?

also while i was working on it today I noticed what may be another cause of the problem. The negative end of the battery cable goes to two places, the body of the car and another location down which looks like near the starter. This lower loop has an exposed section which looks very corroded/rusted, i guess because water may go in that area. Could this cause not enough current to reach the starter?