Hello, believe it or not i finally had the spark plug socket with me when it misfired. (busy life, sorry). I pulled a plug and it did not have antifreeze on it.

Here is what i am thinking from the problems i have read:

fuel pump has been recommended. It started every time when i double primed it until yesterday, when the same problem happened. I can still hear the pump running, but some have suggested this as the problem. Will autozone or another store be able to test the fuel pressure for me to see if this is the problem because i really don't want to replace the fuel pump if i don't need to.

For the relay, is it possible that it is working but the solder it partly cracked so it is delivering lower current then it should? just a thought. Also is their a way to test the ICM or coils for a similar problem? (old solder)

thanks.

 

Pull the relay and inspect it....you can tap into the power side of it to the pump and confirm you are getting voltage to the pump as well.

 

The picture of the ground wire is from the negative battery cable where it bolts to the engine block.

In the trunk of the car, there is an access cover near the back seat. I would disconnect it and clean the eyelet.

Just to be thorough, I would check for engine codes.

Replacing the fuel pump is a pain, so I would suggest testing the fuel pressure first, before replacing the fuel pump. Some parts stores will rent a fuel pressure testing kit. The fuel rail has a threaded adapter that you unbolt. The kit may have the special fitting for the honda fuel rail.

If I were to buy a fuel pump, I would get a Denso. densoaftermarket.com site will give you their part number and list sites that stock the part.

 

Check the negative main ground too. I just got stranded cause it was frayed really bad where it grounds to the motor and it wouldn't start.

 

I have replaced the battery cable and attempted to sand around the eyelets. It still seems to crank at the same speed but oh well.

This continues to be a mystery to me. For the last couple of days i have tried letting the pump running the two seconds and then IMMEDIATELY cranking. (as opposed to waiting a second or so more, as i usually do) When i start this way (so far, about 4 times i have tried) It starts on like the first crank.

maybe the pressure drops very quickly after the pump runs?

 

Sounds like either of 2 things...

The pump should have a check valve in it, so the pressure doesn't bleed backwards through the pump. That leaks?

The FPR leaks forwards, so when the pump shuts off, the pressure bleeds down quickly through the return line.

I can't immediately think of an easy way to tell which is happenning.

Maybe the easy solution is the habit of holding the key at ON for something like 1 to 2 seconds so you don't let it turn off.

 

Is your steering play just in the steering colume to the stering rack? if so your steering rack may be worn, I'm not sure if this can be tightened where the colume meets the rack as I have only just got an Accord myself, another way to check is to lift the front wheels of the ground and check for play in your track rod ends on the end of the steering rack.
As I am from the UK some of my terminolagy may be differant from that of the USA so bare with me guys.

 

Thank you for the suggestions with the steering, but that is a minor problem compared to the main one i have been describing. I am sorry that i keep throwing around random information. It seems like it has been happening more often but it is most likely just me being paranoid.

Anyway i turned the key to on and i am sure i can hear "a sound" from the fuel tank area, i am not sure how loud it is supposed to be, but their is something there. Even though they are pre gapped NKG spark plugs, could this be related to the problem and i should try re-gapping them? i am guessing its that, fuel pump, main relay, or ICU, but really i am just throwing out random guesses.

the other problems i am confident i could do myself, but for the fuel pump, do you think it is a feasible DIY or should i get a mechanic to take a look at it? anyone done this process and know how difficult it is?

finally, it might be noteworthy that i have been using the car as a daily driver for months now even with this intermittent hard starting, and when its running, it runs great, and also easily starts when its warmed up. Would the ICU, relay, or any other problems start easier when its warmed, would they cause problems when its running? (then we can rule them out?)

sorry to post again but i am determined to not be embarrassed when driving other people

 

You may want to isolate the problem to fuel or spark. Since, as I recall, the problem happens only on a cold engine, after the car sits overnight pull a plug wire, stick a skinny screwdriver in it, hold the metal part of the screwdriver an eighth of an inch or so away from the valve cover, and have someone crank the engine for a few seconds. Bluish-white spark?

If so, buy a can of starting fluid, pull the rubber intake boot off of the throttle body, and have someone crank the car with the throttle halfway open while you spray a shot of starting fluid in the throttle body. Does the engine start?

Edit: Keep your face away from the throttle body when you spray the starting fluid, and give it just a quick shot or two; don't spray continuously. The stuff is very flammable.

 

ok so...i am back again. sorry to bother you.

two updates: i got a code reader which shows no stored codes and no problems. (and the temp sensor shows functioning)

secondly, my dad recommended a mechanic who has always been very fair to him. So i finally gave up and took it to him. Naturally, he could not reproduce the problem, but he said the fuel pump was fine and that the car was overall in great condition. (i suggested the fuel pump) He said he believer the problem may be a leaky injector in one of the cylinders but did not believe the cost to be worth it! He gave it back free of charge.

So its not the fuel pump i guess. I feel like the only part of the ignition system i did not replace yet is the ignition coil, i have seen you can test this with a multimeter, does anyone know what ohm readings i am looking for?

i am going crazy now because it happened to me twice today both in the morning and after work.

thanks you for any help..hopefully we are getting closer slowly.