I don't remember the resistance readings, but there's 2 different ways for a coil to go bad. One is for the resistances (either primary or secondary) to be incorrect.

The other way is for the insulation to break down. Then the spark "leaks out". Here's how to test that.
Engine cold, complete darkness. (4am?)
Open hood, turn off all the lights.
Start the engine, look in engine compartment for arcing. Or a blue glow (corona discharge).
Easier to see arcing if you spray with water from a windex bottle.

 

slight update.

I was going to rent the fuel pressure test from auto zone one guy who had apparently modded many accords like mine thought that fuel was not the problem most likely. Besides this he said it sometimes takes a long time to crank if either the timing is off slightly or the crankshaft position sensor was bad.

for the timing the belt was replaced about 40k ago so it should not be bad but maybe...

For the sensor he said something like you could bypass the sensor to test if it was the problem by leading the wires to the distributor or something along those lines, but he did not go into much detail. Does anyone have a tutorial for this anywhere?

In the end he thought that the best thing to try was the coil pack and that i could get a refund if it did not fix the problem. I just finished putting that on but it was still a bit warm so much much of a test yet. However the Idle was a little weird after i installed it, the rpm was going up and down very slightly not wildly but noticeable. does it take the computer time to re-learn the idle or something? or could the new coil pack be DOA?

In any case that's the last part of the ignition system so if that does not fix it i guess its fuel or...timing.

getting closer month by month...

 

It should re-learn the idle. But go over to the DIY section & find a post by me about setting your base idle. If the old coil was flaky, maybe it had "learned" how to compensate so you want to reset that.

 

Alright, so i think i have it figured but again it is hard to know with this kind of problem.

Today i got around to during the pressure test. I got the pressure at the point right after the fuel filter. Upon turning the key to "on" The pressure quickly jumped up to 55 PSI or so, well above the specs from what i have read. I am not sure what this means exactly or if this is good or bad. The car has had two owners before me so maybe their is an aftermarket pump. (no idea)

But then i left the tester attached for a few hours, and as some you have suggested, the pressure dropped all the way to 20, most likely it would have gone to 0 if i left it long enough but that was all the proof i needed - its losing pressure somewhere. I am pretty sure i would have noticed if their was a leak by now, but again it may be the pump like some of you have suggested, the internal check valve failing. I will most likely wait until the summer because if i prime it a few times it usually works, so its not a big deal. Is their a good guide online for replacing the fuel pump?

 

Ok so after all of this I always like to go back and do what I can to help out those who have helped me. Anyway the problem from what i can tell was two things. After fixing these I have waited a month and the problem has not showed up again.

1) The coil had a crack and which was really not visible until I took it off as a suggested replacement. I believe that caused the cold start problem.

2) The warm start problem was of course the one I am sure you have all heard around here already: the main fuel relay. I had resoldered it but i guess the problem was not the solder.

Anyway after a long time I think its finally fixed. Thanks for everyone who gave suggestions. I might have given up without you.

 

THANK YOU for coming back with the end of the story. All too often we never find out what happens.

 

I hate when they dont come back with the end of the story and leave ya hanging