After reading several forums I have found a solution for for what I think is the same problem, but I am not sure what this person means in simple terms. The car that they are talking about is a 94-97 accord not sure of the trim model. I have a 92 accord lx sedan.
thanks


Update on intermittent AC cooling. When working the air is cold so I'm not sure how it could be a low refrigerant cause. When blowing hot air the condensor fan is still running but the compressor is not turning. So, something is causing the compressor to not run when it should. From my research on this it seems that it could be the compressor clutch relay, the thermostat or the pressure switch. Any experience or ideas on this? Thanks.

Replies to this message:
ker1 (Jun 01, 2008 4:13 pm)
ker1 (Jun 02, 2008 10:43 am)

#1200 of 1370 Re: 96 EX V6 intermittent AC cooling. [ker1] by ker1 Jun 01, 2008 (4:13 pm)
Replying to: ker1 (May 31, 2008 2:50 pm)


Update: I checked the refrigerant level & pressure & it is fine. One more Q&A & I should have this figured out. If my pressure switch is bad, would the condensor fan run & the compressor not run? Does the system need to be evacuated to replace the pressure switch? If the condensor fan should not be running if the compressor is not running then my next step is to replace the compressor clutch relay which has been my chief suspect all along. Appreciate any knowledgeable feedback out there. Thanks.

Replies to this message:
ker1 (Jun 02, 2008 10:43 am)

#1201 of 1370 Re: 96 EX V6 intermittent AC cooling. [ker1] by ker1 Jun 02, 2008 (10:43 am)
Replying to: ker1 (Jun 01, 2008 4:13 pm)


Update: I checked the red clutch/coil lead in "failed" mode & I still had battery voltage which proves my relay is fine. I then forced the clutch against the rotating pressure plate (exciting - I recommend a thin wooden stick/pole - less sparks than metal) & lo & behold, it engaged. The gap is out of spec - not by a huge amount but it is bigger than the outside tolerance. I guess that over time the natural progression is for everything to wear & loosen to a wider gap.
So, it seems clear I need to pull the clutch & remove some shims. I've never messed with a compressor clutch & there is precious little clearance from the end of the clutch to the inner fender - maybe 3/4". I'm not sure what I'm getting into here. I don't think there is enough clearance without pulling the compressor & then I'm not sure you could do it without evacuating the system? Can you do this with the compressor in place or must it be removed? I'm wondering if I might be better off to take it to a reliable mechanic & have them do this. I wouldn't expect there to be too much to it for them....maybe 1 hour labor or something like that? Any opinions or experience on this? Thanks again

 

this is the site that I found the information
http://townhall.edmunds.com/direct/view/.efdf920/1197

 

The compressor clutch plate can be removed to allow removal of excess shim washer. This should restore your clutch gap to spec.

Following is summary procedure:
1) Disconnect battery ground lead
2) Release PS and swing to rear of engine. You have to release the reservoir hose to the PS pump. Plug pump and hose end to reduce drippage.
3) remove cruise control actuator and swing to rear (similar to PS pump).
4) Remove alternator.
5) Remove condensor fan.
6) Remove AC belt and remove compressor from mount. This will allow compressor to be tilted upward and adequate access to remove clutch plate. You will need an air ratchet to release nut w/o restraint or a clutch holding wrench to restrain while turning the 10mm socket size bolt that holds clutch plate. Remove clutch plate and remove 1 shim. Reinstall and check clutch gap (spec is 20 +/- 6 mils).

Look for a download of Honda manual. It has lots of details of this procedure.

good luck