I just changed the fuel filter and the check engine light came on little afterwards I kinda of ignored it...
Then I noticed whenever Im coming to a stop it sounds like the engine is going to turn off and also noticed the rpm drops little below 700rpms

please any help is good for me..

1993 Honda accord Lx

 

Go to DIY forum and read how to access your Obd1 code via check engine light. Post your code and this will provide a clue to your problem. Otherwise, just guessing.

good luck

 

Before I got started, I opened the gas cap to releave the gas
I read that somewhere else, and it also said to take take the screw off the fuel rail to releave fuel pressure??
And I skipped that part Hehe forgot to mention
would that be the reason why?

 

I have taken the gas cap off and also taken the bolt on the left handside of the fuel rail and still having the same problem
check engine light comes on about 5 minutes later while car is running
there is no fuel leaking anywhere around the fuel filter or the fuel rail where I took the bolt off.
What should I do now?

 

Relieving fuel pressure has nothing to do w/ your problem since they are no leaks.

Read my original post for next step.

good luck

 

I did that last night and got a code: 12
one long flash and 2 quick ones

From reading around, the cel is going off due to the egr valve lift
what the heck!

now.. Im just wondering how changing the old one with a new fuel filter can trigger something else that was fine before putting the new part in:/

 

Coincidences do happen, but it is also possible that you accidentally damaged EGR wiring, disconnected a vacuum line that supplies EGR, disconnected EGR connector, etc.

I would first inspect the EGR wiring and vacuum lines carefully to make sure an accidental disconnect or damaage did not occur.

If you find nothing, reset the ECU by pulling the BackUp fuse in underhood fuse box for 20 secs. You will need radio code to enter into radio (if original) to enable the radio.

If code 12 appears quickly, then an electrical problem in EGR circuit is likely. In any case, more diagnostics req'd to isolate problem.

If you don't have a Honda Shop Manual, I would suggest downloading a 90-93 manual (any of these years will work) from Online Manuals post links in DIY forum. This has all the diagnostics to trace the EGR fault.

good luck

 

i took out the back up fuse and then put back in...check engine light still came i then took that one out again and the ecu fuse for some minutes after putting them back in, i drove and the check engine light came on again.

besides the check engine light on the car feels like its going to stall when coming to stop rpms drop as low as 100 but keeps running does not completely turn off..

i checked for any loose of not properly connected vacuum and did not find any.

I was thinking of replacing the egr valve since thats what the code 12 is referring to but...since i went to autozone and asked for the egr valve i explained what had happened they said to check the fuel pressure that the egr valve has nothing to do with what i'm experiencing while driving.

 

Let's think about this just for a second.......you have a code for the egr system....YES.
Yet "they" say it is fuel pressure.....hummmm

Me, pull the valve, clean it - be sure to move it so that you can get the "cone" clean. If it is not closing off all the way then strange things can happen....this will only cost, a new egr gasket, come carb cleaner and a bit of time.....ever opened an egr valve manually on a car while at idle, guess what happens to the engine

Or you can ignore the code and chase something else.....me, I'd follow the code and not try to out think the computer.

 

From your description, the EGR valve may be remaining open. This can cause poor idling. It could be open because carbon build up in valve or vacuum applied to valve.

Check EGR vacuum line for vacuum at idle and if vacuum is found, then the problem is a stuck-open EGR solenoid valve. Replace solenoid valve.

If no vacuum, the remove and check EGR valve for easy movement. If stuck, then use throttle body cleaner and air pressure to clean and hopefully free movement. If properly seated, you can blow on one inlet and find no air movement is possible. If stuck open, you can blow through easily.

good luck