Fuel filter line help
#1
Fuel filter line help
Engine's out for F23 swap so I decided to change the fuel filter since it's easy to get to. Big mistake. The lower line was extremely difficult to get off. Looking at the lower line, it's flared, and the nut that tightens the flare is sleeved. I think whoever replaced the filter before tightened the crap out of it, flaring the sleeve. Even with the line completely unscrewed from the filter, the filter still wouldn't come off. I had to yank and turn, yank and turn, to get it off, and the new filter wouldn't go back on. I ended up filing the nut/sleeve to remove the flare from the sleeve to get the new filter on. Even with the new filter on, I had really get it tight to keep the filter from turning on the line.
I have zero confidence that it won't leak, and I'd rather fix it right while the engine's out then wait 'till the engine's back in.
Anyone ever replaced this line, #6?
Alternatively, instead of replacing the whole line, I could cut the line under the floor and replace it with a junkyard line, splicing it somehow. Thoughts?
I have zero confidence that it won't leak, and I'd rather fix it right while the engine's out then wait 'till the engine's back in.
Anyone ever replaced this line, #6?
Alternatively, instead of replacing the whole line, I could cut the line under the floor and replace it with a junkyard line, splicing it somehow. Thoughts?
#5
ok you are going to run a F23 on a OBDII F22 computer.
Do you have info that says that is going to work right?
As far I understand that is not going to work right at all.
Being that you cannot reflash the ODBII system how are you planning on fueling your motor correctly.
People would love to run the F23 motor cause it is cheaper to buy than a H22 but no-one (that I know of) has ever made it work right.
Not trying to rain on your parade it is just if you have info on how to make this work you should share it as many many others would love to know.
Do you have info that says that is going to work right?
As far I understand that is not going to work right at all.
Being that you cannot reflash the ODBII system how are you planning on fueling your motor correctly.
People would love to run the F23 motor cause it is cheaper to buy than a H22 but no-one (that I know of) has ever made it work right.
Not trying to rain on your parade it is just if you have info on how to make this work you should share it as many many others would love to know.
#7
You likely did all this effort for nothing. The fuel filter is not a maintenance item. There is an inlet screen on fuel pump in the fuel tank that will catch any solids.
I've never replaced my filter on 94 EX w/ 244K miles.
I seem to remember the fuel filter nut is removed w/ a crow's foot flare tubing wrench drive by a 3/8 drive extension. I think you must hold the filter housing from above. Earlier models had a boss that could be engaged w/ a wrench. On the 94-97, you may need an open-end crow-foot wrench on extension again to hold the filter housing.
I replaced one fuel filter on 90 Accord (very easy access on these) and found the fitting to be extremely hard to turn. Probably high factory torque on the nut.
good luck
I've never replaced my filter on 94 EX w/ 244K miles.
I seem to remember the fuel filter nut is removed w/ a crow's foot flare tubing wrench drive by a 3/8 drive extension. I think you must hold the filter housing from above. Earlier models had a boss that could be engaged w/ a wrench. On the 94-97, you may need an open-end crow-foot wrench on extension again to hold the filter housing.
I replaced one fuel filter on 90 Accord (very easy access on these) and found the fitting to be extremely hard to turn. Probably high factory torque on the nut.
good luck
#8
I took a 14mm wrench (think that was the size) and cut the open end off. Then had a guy at work weld a piece of 12" long round stock on to it, and made a handle at the end. Essentially making a special tool to get to the fuel filter fitting.
After reading some posts about this filter, and if it's required to change, for whatever reason I have not replaced the filter (thinking it's better off being left alone).
But if you have to replace the line, good luck. If you want to see a pic of the tool I made, let me know.
JM
After reading some posts about this filter, and if it's required to change, for whatever reason I have not replaced the filter (thinking it's better off being left alone).
But if you have to replace the line, good luck. If you want to see a pic of the tool I made, let me know.
JM
#9
No problem unscrewing either fuel line from the filter. The line itself was damaged due to overtightening as some point in the past. 250K miles, engine out, filter exposed...
...it was time to replace the filter. Looks like the rubber outlet line from the filter to the banjo might be the right ID to fit over the steel inlet line, so I'll get one of those at the junkyard today when I cut out the steel line and use a piece of the rubber line as a splice. Four stainless clamps - two on each end - ought to hold the splice.
...it was time to replace the filter. Looks like the rubber outlet line from the filter to the banjo might be the right ID to fit over the steel inlet line, so I'll get one of those at the junkyard today when I cut out the steel line and use a piece of the rubber line as a splice. Four stainless clamps - two on each end - ought to hold the splice.
#10
Roader....good luck on the swap....if my reading is correct there are a few options on getting around the security system on the ecu....tape a key, remove the unit from the ecu, creative wiring to the relay/pump/ect.......
Please keep us updated on how you go about this.
Also, and most important to me, be sure to use FI rated hose and clamps and your should be fine.
Please keep us updated on how you go about this.
Also, and most important to me, be sure to use FI rated hose and clamps and your should be fine.