I checked the sparkplug against the exaust manifold , so would it be possible for something to cause it not to inject and also not to spark? Also, what are the symptoms of a bad neutral safety switch?

 

before you go all over the place ..if you are getting no spark,,, did you chk the coil and ignitor for problems ????

go to the DIY section and chk those 2 things..

 

A timing light w/ inductive pickup allows spark to be checked under compression. If timing light flashes, the spark is good. Very likely you have a bad coil, but use the DIY section to test for coil or ignitor. Your original test likely confirmed no spark but be sure. We've had folks chase spark when fuel is the problem and vice versa. It's not easy as you've seen.

good luck

 

Ok guys, i'll go to the DIY section. LOL, how do I get there?

Thanks
Dave

 

hondaaccordforum.com main page, about th 5th one down...
Do-It-Yourself Section

 

Ok, I seem to have a problem with the search system on this site. I go to search, type coil, or anything, and it comes back unable to find anything. What I am looking for right now, is the location of the coil si I can test it. i am used to the coil wire coming out of the center of the dist cap.

Thanks dave

 

The search function has been broken for 6+ months now, stupid I know. I've set up a special Google search, in my sig below, to help find things.



#1 is the ignitor.
#16 is the coil.

 

Thanks for the diagram, its just what I needed

 

Ok, here is the latest. I tested the coil like in the diy section says [with the test light] and the test light just dimmed from loss of voltage due to cranking, no pulsing. So I assumed my problem to be the igniter. I took both the coil and igniter to autozone where we tested both, only to find that both are good. Mr parts guru [MIKE] then told me the only thing it could be, is the magnetic coil pickup [correct me if im wrong on the title, but since then Ive had a few beers and might be miss quoting]. Anyways, he said that its a non servicable item, and that a remanufactured dist is in orde. So before I take the two hundred dollar plung, I thought I would ask you guys what you think.

Thanks guys
Dave

 

The coil can check ok with its resistance values, and still be bad. The ignitor is basically a switch to charge the coil and should turn on your check engine light if it fails.

You should test that the yel/blk wire going to the distributor (or coil) has 12V when the key is turned to the II position. If you have 12V, my bet is the coil.