Hi, Experts,
I am about for my mechanic to change my brake fluid for my Accord 2000 and Odyssey 2001. Can I use generic Brake Fluid or do I need to stick on the Honda Genuine Brake Fluid? Is there a big difference?

Thanks for your help in advance.

 

Generic Dot 3 or Dot 4 is fine. I put Dot 3(I think it wasprestone brand - they had a buy 1 get 1 free deal at the auto parts store)in my 95 when I changed the brake master cylinder a few months ago.

 

I am going to try to change the brake fluid this weekend. How much brake fluid do I need to prepare before I start to change? I cannot find the spec.

Also, I am not quite sure since I am a newbie for mechanic. After you suck the fluid from reservoir, then loosen the brake bleed screw. Do I need to loose little bit or completely take off the bleed screw? If I take off the bleed screw, Is the brake fluid going to flow out like when you drain the transmission fluid? I am little bit afraid to make messy when I do this job.

I read DIY section for this but cannot understand completely this.

Thanks a lot.

 

I have not seen any articles talking about genuine brake fluid similar to using a very specific antifreeze designed for your engine. Just make sure its the correct rating, DOT 3 or DOT 4 or DOT 5. DO NOT use silicone fluid in non silicone fluid required systems is the only warning I have noticed.

DOT 3 to DOT 4 only raises the boiling point temperature.

 

DO NOT USE DOT5. That IS silicone fluid. DOT 5.1 is OK, but those fluids are generally labeled as DOT4 because they satisfy those requirements too.

Probably 1 liter for each car. If you buy extra don't break the seal. The 2-year lifespan for fluid begins when you break the seal, regardless whether it's in the car or in the bottle.

1 - Get a helper to push the pedal as you work the bleed valve.
2 - Suck out the reservoir fluid & refill with fresh.
3- Start with the left-front. Get a hose that fits over the end of the bleed screw, drop it into a jar to catch the fluid.

4 - Helper pumps the brake pedal a couple times & then holds it down.
5 - You open the bleed valve just enough for fluid to come out.
6-Try to close the valve before his pedal gets all the way to the floor.
7 - Repeat 4-5-6 maybe 10 or 15 times. Refill the reservoir.With some experience you'll know how many you can do before refilling.

8 - After about 200ml or 250ml go to the next wheel in order. By that time you should not have any air bubbles coming out. If you DO, then you'll want to send someone for extra fluid...

DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR GET EMPTY. If it does & sucks air, you basically have to start over.

Bleeding order for your Accord is LF - RF - RR - LR. I guess the Odyssey would be the same but I'm not real sure. This bleeds the ABS; you do not have to do anything special.

 

With inexperienced help, I have them put a shoe behind the brake pedal so that it cannot go all the way to the floor, it only needs to go half way, going more than normal travel is taking a chance on damaging the internal seals.

 

Jimblake nailed it. I bled my brakes for the first time when I changed out my master cylinder. It was super easy (besides having to remove all the wheels one at a time cause I couldn't reach the bleed screw with the wheel on.) The bleed screw will have a little rubber nipple cover on it. You may want to use a closed end wrench or a flare nut wrench (mine was 10mm) to break the bleed screw loose the first time as it could be pretty hard to brake loose due to moisture buildup, etc.., and it would suck if you rounded it off. You should only have to turn it about 1/2 turn and brake fluid will come out. It kind of squirts out in bursts as the brake pedal is mashed down.

 

Wow.
Great!!.. And quick responses. Thanks for all your great info. It makes me much more comfortable to do this maintenance job.

For 2000 Accord, do I need to take off wheel to loose bleed screw? When I see the diagram, it looks like little bit challenge to access rear bleed screw without taking off the wheel. Though I didn't try it yet.

During past few weeks, I changed my spark plugs, transmission fluid, coolant after I get the info. from this site and save lots of $$$. My local dealer asked

$125 for spark plug changes - I spent only $40 for Denzo Iridium spark plugs (IK16). I can feel the difference.

$70 for tranmission fluid drain and fill - Spent $20 for Honda ATF-Z1 for one drain and fill. I did twice and the color of fluid looks clean red. Shift seems to be great. Even if I was fooled from my local dealer for parts. They charged $2.40 for little transmission drain plug washer. I thought that was regular price and felt too expensive, but I bought. few days later, when I stop by Acura dealer and asked the price of same part, they said $0.30!!! Yikess, I will go to Acura dealer next time.

$70 for coolant change - Spent $13 for genuine Honda coolant. Kind of expensive as well but believe it will be worth investment like you guys said

$45 for engine air filter - Spent $13 for generic part.

$60 for cabin air filter - Spent $10 for generic part.

$65 for brake fluid change. - Not done yet.

With these maintenance jobs, I feel my car runs like brand new and good gas mileage now. About 27 mpg (city 45%, highway 55%). Much better than before, I usually got 23 mpg.

 

If I were you, I would take off the first wheel you do so you can get oriented with where the bleed screw is. If you have drums on the rear though, the bleed screw will be in a different location than on the discs. Even after doing this, it was easier for me to remove the wheel than to try to fenagle a wrench in there to get to the bleed screw. Although many say it is not necessary to remove the wheel. I guess if you raise the car up you can access it from the inside, but I still think remioving the wheel is easier. It's only 4 lug nuts anyway!

 

Does that $65 brake fluid change include bleeding the old fluid out of the lines or do they just suck out the reservoir and refill?? If they do it right, I'd probably let them do it for $65.