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Head bolt size

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  #11  
Old 07-21-2013 | 01:10 PM
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For F22B1 and F22B2 head bolt socket size is '14'. I do have some spare headbolts which I pulled from the boneyard. If you are in need, let me know.

X4 for spindle nut

They are pretty pricey and expensive from the dealer, as well as aftermarket. But Victor Reinz are a good aftermarket one and they are least expensive from RockAuto if you use 5% off coupon.
 
  #12  
Old 07-25-2013 | 06:42 PM
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Well I got 4 head bolts that are still froze in place and I CAN NOT get the damn things out... So.. What do I do now guys?
 
  #13  
Old 07-25-2013 | 06:59 PM
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What did you use to try to remove them already; bolt extractor, 6-point sockets, etc.?

Can you take pictures of the rounded bolt head?
 
  #14  
Old 07-25-2013 | 07:07 PM
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Are heads rounded or you can't develop enough torque to break them loose?

What length of breaker bar are you using?

good luck
 
  #15  
Old 07-25-2013 | 07:32 PM
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Redbull-A bolt extractor after my 6 point socket failed me. And yeah but it will be tomorrow. I work till 4:30am and don't get home till 5:30ish but I can take one then.
Texas-both. And it's not really a breaker bar it's an extension pipe from the exhaust I had on my truck.. Lol but I've tried taking a hammer to the ratchet and I can't get them to move ANY. Got one out that way but the rest.. Nope.
 
  #16  
Old 07-26-2013 | 07:03 AM
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Are you loosening them partway in sequence? Because when you completely remove the tension of a couple bolts that makes the others that much tighter.
 
  #17  
Old 07-26-2013 | 07:33 AM
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Are you using SAE (american size) sockets? If yes, this is part of the problem. The bolt size is 14mm and will not round bolt heads.

That said, this will likely require welding new nuts to the bolt heads to have something to work with. Car will need to be moved to a shop that can manage this job.

It also may be possible to grind the bolt heads off, but this will be difficult. You may need to remove valve train for access for either of these fixes.

As Jim points out, if bolts were not removed in sequence, some of the bolt load gets transferred to adjacent bolts and makes then tighter.

This is not a job to be done w/o following procedure and using correct tools. This is where job went off the rails.

good luck
 
  #18  
Old 07-26-2013 | 08:54 AM
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Ask me how I know about this?

Please try doing following things:

Try tightening all the bolts whatever you have broken loose, BUT make sure only tighten them as much that you can crack them again easily. I am saying again, ONLY tighten them as much, that you can easily crack them.

Then follow the sequence as highlighted in the picture.

1- Use good '6' pt '14' size 1/2" deep socket.

2- Use 1/2" breaker bar and a good solid 4-5 ft long steel pipe with the deep socket, use the pipe as a cheater pipe and slide it over your breaker bar and then try cracking them. Would be a lot easier, if you have one person holding the deep socket and pushing it towards the bolt, so that when you apply force, socket doesn't slip or round off the bolt.

3- If above '2' do not work, could you take a picture for the problematic bolts? Because if they are in the middle or towards the exhaust side, you can use 1/2" bolt extractors, else 3/8 bolt extractors with 3/8 to 1/2 adapter will do the trick. Do you have any bolt extractors? If not, lets have a look on the pictures first. Please take the pictures with a close and clear view of the head.

4- One last option is to drill out the head, BUT again that's the last and final OPTION.
 
Attached Thumbnails Head bolt size-chb.jpg  
  #19  
Old 07-26-2013 | 10:21 AM
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I didn't need a big cheater pipe. Just a breaker bar maybe 2-feet long. Solid force, and hold the "knuckle" of the breaker bar so you aren't bending the top of the bolt. Just pure twisting on the bolt.
 
  #20  
Old 07-26-2013 | 07:15 PM
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I feel that tightening the rest down some might fix some of my problem. Will try in. Little. Currently trying to find my lizard that got out. Been looking for 4.5 hours. Ain't found him yet :/ bleh
 


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