I'm getting ready to order a head gasket set. I'll be replacing the head gasket on my '92 Accord. I'm trying to ask/follow advice from experienced members here as I encounter uncertainties as I'm proceeding with the job. I have a few questions at this point:

1. It's probably been discussed/debated plenty of times but do I want to get the “layered steel” or the “graphite” (or “fiber') type head gasket for the replacement? I've seen it remarked that the finish on the cylinder head and block must be flatter and smoother (when using a steel gasket) than what has been traditionally required for graphite gaskets to make gaskets seal properly. I've noticed that both types (head gasket material) are available in head gasket sets available for this vehicle. Which would be recommended, and why? I suppose it may depend on different circumstances?

2. In regard to what brand of gasket set to consider, I assume most here will recommend getting “OEM” replacement only, or at least a known brand name such as Fel-Pro. There seems to be quite a price range depending upon brands of such names of Fel-Pro or Beck-Arnley, etc. Also there are considerably less expensive sets from unknown off-brands available. I suppose the rule of thumb is the more you pay the better quality you're going to get, and that trying to save money buying some “unknown” brand is in the long run not worth it, although I'd appreciate any comments in reference to that please. Currently I'm considering going with this type of Fel-Pro head gasket which is the MLS type Product Information - PermaTorque® MLS Head Gaskets but it states there "If the vehicle engine was equipped with an MLS gasket from the factory, the Fel-Pro replacement will be a PermaTorque MLS gasket", and I don't know whether the vehicle was equipped with an MLS gasket from the factory. Perhaps someone here knows? Also, much less expensive head gasket/sets can be had from ebay such as these "off" brands of which either the MLS or the graphite type head gaskets can be ordered:
MLS type: Honda Accord Prelude 2 2 F22A 16V MLS Head Gasket Set | eBay

Graphite type: 91 96 Honda Accord Prelude 2 2 F22A 16V Graphite Head Gasket Set | eBay

Or another comparatively inexpensive choice would be this "Evergreen" head gasket set of which the head gasket seems to be the MLS type and is shown/described in this video I found interesting:
3. How difficult is it to tell for sure whether the head requires resurfacing? If I can get my hands on a precision straightedge and proper feeler gauge, or maybe take it to a shop that has such, should I be really be able to obtain an accurate assessment of whether resurfacing is necessary, or should it (resurfacing) just be done anyway because realistically it's generally too difficult to be sure about flatness being within tolerance even if checking with the straightedge and gauge.

Incidentally, I've haven't removed the head yet, so haven't seen the old head gasket or head surface yet. That's because I understand a head gasket set usually comes with new "tube seals" and I was wanting to keep the head still anchored on while I remove the rocker arm assembly and do the work as described on the following post (and shown in the video on the post): ENG: F22 Spark Plug Tube Seal Replacement - CB7Tuner Forums

Thanks for any comments.

 

Just me but Victor Reinz (Mahle) gaskets have always done me well.

If it is my car - I'm having the head checked at a machine shop for warpage and also guides. New stem seals and they might even do the lower tubes as well. Call the machine shop and see if they want it with or without the cam shaft.

 

Okay thanks poorman212. I've seen the Victor Reinz head gasket sets available for sale too, and figured because of the price the quality must be good. Do you know off-hand if the Victor Reinz head gaskets you used were MLS or graphite (composite), and whether the engine(s) in you installed them original factory head gaskets were MLS? Or is that not something to be so concerned about? It seems from what I've been reading that MLS head gaskets seem to require such absolutely perfect mating surfaces that unless any resurfacing/cleaning is done so absolutely perfect that there's more potential for leakage than using the graphite head gaskets which apparently are more "forgiving" but am unclear whether this is the necessarily the case for sure.
Once I get the head off I'll try to call around and get in touch with some machine shops (if there are any local ones around here with experience working on cylinder heads, which I doubt) and inquire with them per your suggestion in that regard.
Thanks again.

 

What part of the country are you in - I might know a shop or two in your area.

Anyway the Victor head gaskets are MLS design.

If you have any concerns about their product, let me know - I can get you in touch with someone from their tech support.

Again, just me but if I'm pulling the head - I want a machine shop to inspect it

 

I'm in a relatively isolated small SE Alaska community where, after checking with some locals here, am finding the closest place that will machine/resurface an automotive cylinder head is in Juneau which is 70 miles away by boat or air only so if I need that type of work done on the head I'd have the expense of shipping it there and back plus of course the cost of the job. Once I get the head off I can at least take it to one of the local auto repair shops here and have them check it with a a straightedge and feeler gauge for potential out-of-tolerance warping and thus the necessity of sending it out resurfacing I suppose.

 

I've read some bad things about the graphite head gaskets (particularly for Subarus). A MLS is best. I've used Felpro w/ good results.

Agreet that resurfacing is best insurance to prevent failure of new head gasket. Replace stem seals and reseat valves if you take to a machine shop. If you have a LX, replace the spark plug tube orings under the valve train.

good luck

 

In regard to the subject I came across the following article online, of which I've quoted some snippets below and have included my comments: Prevent Head Gasket Failures

“If you are checking flatness on a late model Japanese engine that has a multi-layer steel (MLS) head gasket, both sealing surfaces must be no more than .002 in. (.05 mm) of total distortion (that is, block plus the head combined) in any direction. Engines that use this type of gasket include 1990 & up Honda Accord 1.8L, 1990 & up Honda 1.5L, 2.2L & 2.3L” (I have a 1992 Accord 2.2L, so according to above there cannot be more than .002 in. of distortion of my head sealing surface).

“Any head that fails to meet these specs needs to be straightened and/or resurfaced. Aluminum heads should always be straightened prior to resurfacing. This will substantially reduce the amount of metal that has to be removed from the head to restore flatness.” So this apparently means if my head happens to be out of the .002 tolerance specification I'll need to find a shop that can not only resurface the head but can straighten the head prior to resurfacing, my head being aluminum as per the statement.

In regard to smoothness/finish of the surface,(the “RA” or “roughness average” specification), the article says “The typical recommendation today for an aluminum head on an OHC bimetal engine is a surface finish of 30 to 60 RA, with the preferred range being from 50 to 60 RA, unless, of course, it is one of the Japanese engines already mentioned with the MLS steel head gaskets which requires an even smoother finish (typically 20 to 30 RA).” Since mine is one of the Japanese engines mentioned with the MLS steel gaskets, I'd apparently be needing the ultra smooth finish of 20 to 30 RA, as mentioned.

The article continues “It is not difficult for the OEMs to achieve this type of mirror-like finish when they manufacture a brand new engine on an assembly line. But not every aftermarket machine shop has the proper equipment to reproduce this kind of finish. So some experts say heads that mate to MLS gaskets should not be resurfaced unless absolutely necessary. ” If this is indeed the case, then I seriously doubt any machine shop within my reasonable geographic location will have such equipment if I do get it resurfaced.

More from the article: “Reproducing the kind of high quality surface finish needed to seal MLS gaskets requires up-to-date milling equipment and precision resurfacing techniques. Even then, it may be difficult to get a good cold seal on some engines. One alternative here is to install a conventional gasket (graphite or composition) that does not require such a smooth finish (if such an alternative gasket is available for the application).”

All this seems like there's a lot for me to take into consideration before just deciding to get my head to a shop to have it resurfaced, especially if I'm wanting to use an MLS type head gasket with my aluminum head. If it turns out, after checking for flatness, that there's any head distortion beyond the .002 in. tolerance, as mentioned I suppose I'll have to make sure the head is straightened prior to resurfacing. I doubt the shop would even have such straightening equipment. In addition, I'd have to be sure the shop is sufficiently equipped to get the proper finish/smoothness apparently required to use the MLS type gasket. Even if the shop was so equipped and could do such precise work properly, it all sounds like a pretty expensive and involved undertaking just so I can accomplish a reliable head gasket changeout for my old car. Not like it's a race car or anything, just a daily driver I wouldn't mind being able to repair decently myself. Once I actually pull the head and get the opportunity to have it checked for out-of-tolerance flatness, I might have a better idea which direction to proceed. And might is the key word there.

Any further comments appreciated!

 

I never heard of "straightening" a head, but see the point. I think all the heads I've had done were only "shaved" by machining. I was concerned about RA, but after inspecting the head was as smooth as the head I brought in and certainly as smooth as the block I was mounting to.

I found that use of gasket removal spray is helpful to get tightly bound pieces of head gasket surface coating off the block. A good razor scraper tool is essential also. It is tedious and I probably spent at least 2 hrs on this task.

There is a video on youtube about creating your own thread chaser to clean/smooth block threads. Basically, you grind longitudinal grooves in threads of an old head bolt of same size. Blow out w/ air afterwards (safety glasses essential). I think cleaning threads and lubing bolts is important to get correct bolt torque (tension) as specified.

I also found helpful to use two thin strips of wood laid on ends of block to "land" the head when you install. You are extended and stressed to land the head and it would be easy to drop/damage the head gasket perched on the block. Once landed on strips, remove a strip from one end and land head on gasket, and repeat for second end.

good luck