General Tech Help Good at troubleshooting? Have a non specific issue? Discuss general tech topics here.

heat works only with high rpm

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 12-13-2012 | 12:08 PM
redbull-1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7,094
From: United States
Default

Attached is the cooling system components. The coolant flow is as JimBlake described.
 
Attached Thumbnails heat works only with high rpm-cooling-system-components.jpg   heat works only with high rpm-heater-hoses.jpg  
  #12  
Old 12-13-2012 | 12:24 PM
Silver6gen's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 455
Default

If all is ok, it maybe your water pump... These rarely fail on hondas but it could be worn out and doesn't efficiently pump at rpms below 1000.

Or you have a blockage somewhere that is restricting low pressure flow.
 
  #13  
Old 12-13-2012 | 04:01 PM
smitty2919's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Newest Of Newbies
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 13
Default

Awesome thanks for the pics redbull.

The goal this weekend will be to reverse flush it. I live in an apt. and where I would disconnect the hoses (and lose coolant) I won't have access to a hose.

I will be going to my father in-laws shop to diagnose this.

Studying those pics, what does the "coolant separator" do? Is it like a throttle body heater? My GTO has this feature to warm up the throttle body housing to avoid it freezing in cold weather.
 

Last edited by smitty2919; 12-13-2012 at 04:23 PM.
  #14  
Old 12-14-2012 | 01:16 AM
redbull-1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7,094
From: United States
Default

Originally Posted by smitty2919
...

Studying those pics, what does the "coolant separator" do? Is it like a throttle body heater? My GTO has this feature to warm up the throttle body housing to avoid it freezing in cold weather.
The coolant separator is also called a partition plate by Honda. The cylinder head was designed to use the coolant separator/diverter to flow coolant around the sleeves to prevent hot spots on certain cylinders.

As noted in this link, "... in the water jacket around the cylinders nearest to the coolant entry point (it's on the timing chain end of the block) there sits what Acura calls a "partition plate." The plate acts as a diverter, forcing the coolant to travel the longest way around the sleeves rather than allowing the fluid to take the shortest path out, which leaves the cylinders on one end of the block unprotected..."
 
Attached Thumbnails heat works only with high rpm-coolant-separator.jpg  
  #15  
Old 12-14-2012 | 07:06 AM
smitty2919's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Newest Of Newbies
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 13
Default

Thank you!

I was referring to that tube...it looks like they are calling out a coolant tube called the "coolant separator" but as you pointed out, the arrow is deceiving.

I will keep this post updated
 
  #16  
Old 12-14-2012 | 10:56 PM
Georgio056's Avatar
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 7
Default

Sounds like your heater core may be clogged. This happens when you don't use your heat for a long time, like during the summer months, and the coolant in the heater core starts to gel and plug your heater core. Think it starts heating when you rev it because when you increase engine speed, you also increase the speed that the water pump flows coolant. Higher rpm means higher coolant flow which breaks through the clog. I'm not 100% sure this is your problem but its a posability. Ive seen issues like yours before and it was a clogged heater core.
 
  #17  
Old 12-16-2012 | 10:17 AM
smitty2919's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Newest Of Newbies
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 13
Default

Well here is a little update. Ended up disconnecting the heater core inlet pipe from the "backside of the heater valve and then disconnected the heater core outlet pipe at the motor end.

Shoved a garden hose in the outlet pipe and ran water through it. Then let water fill the heater core and used compressed air (not a lot of psi btw) and let the air PUSH the water out. I didn't notice any dirt or grime coming out of the heater core.

Then we reconnected the all hoses, started the car with the radiator cap off and let it run while filling the radiator cycling through full hot and full cold to divert the coolant back and forth. When the coolant got low we would add some more. While doing this, the heat AT IDLE started to come back.

So seems like between reverse flushing the heater core and burping the system it solved our problems. Wife just texed me saying "I HAVE HEAT!!!!" lol.

I don't know how, if any, air was in the system in the beginning and that it was air bubbles causing this. But it seems a good burnping did the job.

Thanks alot for the help guys! We both really appreciate it.
 
  #18  
Old 12-16-2012 | 11:21 AM
redbull-1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7,094
From: United States
Default

Glad that the problem is resolved and thanks for reporting back.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JOE.G
General Tech Help
10
01-01-2015 06:48 AM
techie768
General Tech Help
5
12-08-2014 08:35 AM
njjoe
General Tech Help
3
10-30-2011 11:54 AM
VAaccord
General Tech Help
7
11-14-2010 10:29 PM
yamahabalu
General Tech Help
4
09-28-2009 03:11 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:21 AM.