Help 2003 EX-L V6 Coupe Problems
#1
Help 2003 EX-L V6 Coupe Problems
Hi Guys, I'm having a couple of problems recently and need some help. I've got a 2003 Accord EX-L V6 Coupe that has 123,000 miles, and it has been very well maintained. I've owned it 2 years.
The first thing that happened is the A/C would stop blowing cold intermittently, then would just start blowing Ice Cold again. I had several people say it was the Expansion Valve, so we had the system evacuated and the Expansion Valve and Drier replace and the system re charged, but that didn't do anything. An A/C mechanic My Dad uses for his Dump truck said he thinks it's a sensor, because when he looked at it before it stopped blowing cold all together, it would go from Ice Cold, to blowing Ambient Air, and then back to Ice Cold again. The Compressor was engaging, but now it won't engage, which he says he believes is because of the sensor.
The second issue started 2 days ago. I made a right turn out of the apartment complex and there was a thumping sound coming from the right front side of the car and the steering wheel started jerking violently, left and right. My first thought was a flat tire, but I drove about 100 feet and we heard something hard bounce under the car and the thumping stopped and the steering stopped jerking so violently, Now it has a wobble/vibration in the steering and it pulls pretty hard to the left.
Dad and I jacked it up and took off the front tires and the Left Steering gear Boot is Off at the Gear side. but looks OK and the tie Rod Ends look fine. Dad had me put it in neutral and tried turning the wheels left and right and spinning the wheels and everything seems tight. Then he had me start it and put it in drive with the wheels off the ground. The left wheel spun but the right wasn't turning until I gave it some gas. When I did, it engaged but made a horrible grinding/clunking sound. I turned off the Traction Control off and it doesn't make that sound.
Does Anyone have any Idea what could be causing these issues? Any Help would be Greatly Appreciated.
The first thing that happened is the A/C would stop blowing cold intermittently, then would just start blowing Ice Cold again. I had several people say it was the Expansion Valve, so we had the system evacuated and the Expansion Valve and Drier replace and the system re charged, but that didn't do anything. An A/C mechanic My Dad uses for his Dump truck said he thinks it's a sensor, because when he looked at it before it stopped blowing cold all together, it would go from Ice Cold, to blowing Ambient Air, and then back to Ice Cold again. The Compressor was engaging, but now it won't engage, which he says he believes is because of the sensor.
The second issue started 2 days ago. I made a right turn out of the apartment complex and there was a thumping sound coming from the right front side of the car and the steering wheel started jerking violently, left and right. My first thought was a flat tire, but I drove about 100 feet and we heard something hard bounce under the car and the thumping stopped and the steering stopped jerking so violently, Now it has a wobble/vibration in the steering and it pulls pretty hard to the left.
Dad and I jacked it up and took off the front tires and the Left Steering gear Boot is Off at the Gear side. but looks OK and the tie Rod Ends look fine. Dad had me put it in neutral and tried turning the wheels left and right and spinning the wheels and everything seems tight. Then he had me start it and put it in drive with the wheels off the ground. The left wheel spun but the right wasn't turning until I gave it some gas. When I did, it engaged but made a horrible grinding/clunking sound. I turned off the Traction Control off and it doesn't make that sound.
Does Anyone have any Idea what could be causing these issues? Any Help would be Greatly Appreciated.
Last edited by TampaBear67; 08-05-2013 at 03:15 PM.
#2
Hmmmmmm ....
Well, your dad's friend probably hit the right answer with his sensor diagnosis. That's sure what it sounds like.
Now on the the greater problem. At first I thought you were describing a bad CV joint. They have been known to go bad on Accords and in fact one of mine was replaced by the selling dealer just before I bought my car. But then you said it went away when the traction control was shut off - but the wheel apparently off the ground and no pressure on it. It might be useful to jack it back up but just get that wheel a little bit off the ground and then shove some kind of very big pry-bar under it and see if you can move that wheel around. You may have seen this done to check for worn ball-joints, well, it works pretty well for destroyed wheel bearings too, and at the moment that is my best guess about what is causing your problem. Generally you will hear them squeek and then squeel a few times before they let go, but sometimes it happens all of a sudden. That's my guess.
Now on the the greater problem. At first I thought you were describing a bad CV joint. They have been known to go bad on Accords and in fact one of mine was replaced by the selling dealer just before I bought my car. But then you said it went away when the traction control was shut off - but the wheel apparently off the ground and no pressure on it. It might be useful to jack it back up but just get that wheel a little bit off the ground and then shove some kind of very big pry-bar under it and see if you can move that wheel around. You may have seen this done to check for worn ball-joints, well, it works pretty well for destroyed wheel bearings too, and at the moment that is my best guess about what is causing your problem. Generally you will hear them squeek and then squeel a few times before they let go, but sometimes it happens all of a sudden. That's my guess.
#3
Thanks, but No, there is no play in the Ball Joints and there is no Noise or Grinding from a Wheel Bearing gone bad. It's just strange that it happened so suddenly. the Only Grinding is when the Traction Control is on and the Wheel is off the ground and I give it gas. It's a Grinding/Clunk kind of sound, which i don't know if that is just the Traction Control Engaging or what. There are No Warning Lights on, only when I turn the Traction Control Off.
#5
The common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum has a link for checking hvac codes on the 03-07 accords. Do that test and post those hvac codes on here.
Suspension noises and play are hard to do over the web. Did you try pushing/pulling the tire at 12/6 o'clock? Then 3/9 o'clock?
There is a bearing on the intermediate shaft that the passenger CV joint connects to. Maybe the CV joint pulled out of there? How much play is in the CV joints?
Suspension noises and play are hard to do over the web. Did you try pushing/pulling the tire at 12/6 o'clock? Then 3/9 o'clock?
There is a bearing on the intermediate shaft that the passenger CV joint connects to. Maybe the CV joint pulled out of there? How much play is in the CV joints?
#6
Thanks PAHonda. I tried to run the diagnostic on the A/C but it wouldn't give any codes. It only said Hi where the Numbers should be for a couple of minutes, then switched to low and the blower started blowing warm air. I finally just took it to Honda. It turns out that the issue with the Steering and Pulling Issue turned out to be a Separated Tire. 4 new Bridgestone Turanza Serenity Tires and $588 Later and It Drives like a New Car again. I had the alignment checked at Firestone when they installed the tires and after 2 1/2 years of ownership it's still completely in spec's, which was good news. However Honda did give me some bad news. They found a rear main seal leak, which they want $1232 to fix, and said the front struts are starting to leak. Another $795. Also they said it has No Freon in the System, which I just had Filled after having the Expansion Valve and Drier installed. So it's got a leak somewhere. They wanted $189 to Evac and Re-Charge the system just to check for leaks and test it. So after the expense of the tires, and looking at a Rear Main Seal repair, the A/C is just gonna have to wait.
#7
You might want to change the PCV valve to see if it corrects the leak at rear main seal. If not, then the seal has failed. See this link:
http://www.justanswer.com/honda/6a35...ng-engine.html
http://www.justanswer.com/honda/6a35...ng-engine.html
#8
Thank You RedBull 1, I just picked up a new Genuine Honda PCV Valve from Advance for $24.95. Going tochange it now & hope it stops the leak. It doesnt sound as bad as the issue the guy was having with his in that link. Mine's just at 123, 000 miles which is 10, 000 less miles and It doesn't really loose enough to notice between oil changes, and isn't even leaking enough to show a drip on the pavement in the driveway.
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