2000 Accord EX Sedan, 4 Door. F23A4

Hi All,

So this is my first post here on Accord Forum, but I've been helped out by you guys through various other threads just about every time I've needed help. I had to make my own thread for this one though, I'm just having too much trouble this time around. Hopefully someone will have some insight.

I spent the whole day yesterday changing out my intake manifold gasket (It was creating a bad vacuum leak). I saw a few posts saying that the manifold didn't actually have to come out of the car to change, and this was confirmed by Eric the Car Guy, so that's the route I went with. What a pain in the A**! It took me at least an hour and a half just to get all the remnants of the old gasket material off of the surfaces. I'd advise any and everyone to just take the sucker out and do it that way.
So I get the gasket changed out, and, even though it's dark at this point, I decide to put everything back together cause I've got to get to work the next morning. I button it all back up, refill the radiator, and connect my negative batter cable. So, here it is, the moment of truth. "Did Fubar it? Nah, couldn't have. I only changed a gasket!" So I got in the car, put the key in and what do you know...It won't start.
It's definitely cranking, but it doesn't seem to be getting fuel. I pulled two spark plugs and they were bone dry after multiple starting attempts. So I'm assuming they should at least have smelled like gasoline, but they didn't. The ONLY fuel component I actually took off was the fuel pressure regulator (I know that they book says you're supposed to depressurize the fuel system properly, but I didn't. I just took the regulator off it let out the pressure anyway). I did forget to put the o-ring back on the pressure regulator before reconnecting and attempting to start, but even so, there was no fuel smell or visible leakage. When I removed it again to replace the forgotten o-ring, it was still pretty dry.

So basically...I'm lost. Has anyone had this happen before? I'm pretty sure I got all the electrical connections back in, but it's possible I missed one. Are there any (aside from the injectors and fuel rail) that would stop the flow of fuel if they're not connected? PLEASE HELP!!! I'm running out of time here. Between summer classes and work, without a car I'm screwed. Any and all advice would be appreciated!

Thanks so much in advance, everyone!

 

Check the ground connection and wire at G101. See pic. Make sure it is clean and tight and wire is not damage.

 

Thanks for the advice! I'll try that as soon as I get home tonight from work.

Do you know off the top of your head what that ground is for? Is it pertinent to the fuel pump? It almost sounds as though my fuel pump isn't running despite having remained connected the whole time.

Thanks for the help!

 

G101 is for:

DLC (BRN/BLK), EGR valve and EGR valve position sensor, IAC valve, Immobilizer receiver unit (BRN/BLK), PCM or ECM (PG1 and PG2 are BLK; LG1 and LG2 are BRN/BLK), PGM-FI main relay, Radiator fan switch, Shift control solenoid valves B and C, Transmission range switch, VSS (M/T), VTEC oil pressure switch (BRN/BLK)

Shielding between the PCM or ECM and these components (all have BRAIDED wires): CKP/TDC sensor, Countershaft speed sensor (A/T), CYP sensor, Knock sensor (LX, EX), Mainshaft speed sensor (A/T), Primary and secondary HO2S

You car will have starting problems without it, as the PCM/ECM and main relay uses that. The PCM/ECM and the main relay affects fuel injection and fuel pump control. Immobilizer also uses G101.

 

Wow! Thank you for such a thorough answer! I knew I could count on the forums. I'll confirm the connection tonight and let you know how it goes!

Thanks again!

 

PS - this is HAF (Honda Accord Forum) not Honda-Tech. Seems like RB and I (on HT) came to the same "guess" as to the issue.

 

Ha! Well that's a little embarrassing I suppose.

Clearly, I wanted as much input as possible but I was too lazy to write up two posts. So I just copied my first one to HT and didn't even think to re-read it. Ayup, and I wonder why I have problems with my car.

Well, thanks for the pointers all the same, man! I appreciate it!

 

Okay, so here's my update:

I just got home, and tightened down the G101 ground strap. You were absolutely right! The engine started right up, no problem! Thanks for the advice!

However, now I've got another problem...As is often how these things work for me. The engine seems to be hunting. It's jumping from about 1000 RPM to 1300 RPM, almost like it's got another vacuum leak. Only this time, I've got a different code. The code it throws now is p1519, which is for the IAC valve I believe. Any thoughts as to how to proceed?

Thanks again!

 

1. Check that the IAC valve connector terminals and wiring are not damaged.

2. Make sure it is firmly connected to the IAC valve.

3. Reset the the ECM/PCM either with your OBD reader/scanner or pulling the passenger under-dash Fuse No. 13 (7.5A) for ten seconds.

4. Turn the ignition ON, is there still the P1519 - IAC Valve Circuit Malfunction? If there still is, turn the ignition off and disconnect the IAC valve electrical connector.

5. Turn the ignition ON, is there voltage on the connector terminal pin # 2 Yel/Blk wire? You would touch a voltmeter's red lead to the Yel/Blk wire terminal and the voltmeter's black lead to body ground.

6. If voltage in step #5, check for continuity of body ground on connector termina pin #1 Blk wire. This is the wire coming from Ground G101. To test for continuity, set to multimeter either the "ohms" or the setting it will beep when you hold the two leads together. Touch the meter's black lead to body ground and the meter's red lead to the 4P connector's Blk wire.

• If your meter beeps, it means you have continuity.
• If it is on ohms scale, you will have continuity when it reads close to 0 ohms.
• If it doesn't beep , shows OL (open line) or a 1 (infinity ohms); it means you don't have continuity.

There should be continuity on the Blk wire. However, if you have no continuity to ground on the Blk wire, that means you probably have an open/break in the Blk wire.

7. If there is power on the terminal #2 Yel/Blk wire in step #5 and continuity to ground on the terminal #1 Blk wire in step #6, then move on to test the terminal #3 Blk/Blu wire that goes to the ECM/PCM.

To do that you would disconnect the ECM/PCM Connector B (25P gray connector). Then check for continuity to body ground on the Connector B terminal B23. There should be no continuity to body ground. If there is continuity to body ground, there may be a short in the Blk/Blu wire that goes from the IAC valve to the ECM/PCM.

To get to the PCM's connectors, you only need to remove the one plastic clip on the passenger side carpet and pull back the carpet on that side. Connector B is shown in a different photo I've attached.




8. There are still a few more things to check based on results you may have if there is still no resolution.

 

RB, you're a life saver. I really appreciate the help!

So, it doesn't look like the terminals themselves are damaged but the connector doesn't look great. I'll attach a picture. The wiring APPEARS to be good, but I think there's more going on there than I can see.

1. Terminals look good

2. Definitely a firm connection

3. Resetting the PCM was my first thought as well. Did that with my OBDII but the code comes back on shortly there after. Actually, it's interesting, if I disconnect the IAC electrical harness while the car is running, the idle bumps up to a constant 2000 RPM with no surging. Then I'll reconnect the harness and it stays at 2000 grand till I erase the P1519 Code and immediately it drops and begins surging again. Don't know if that might be pertinent information.

4. Done

5. Yes, there is voltage. It's about 3.7-3.8. What sort of voltage should I be looking for?

6. This is where I'm getting confused. I'll post a picture of the harness I've got, but none of these wires look black to me. Are you describing a connector different than the one for the IACv?