help? noise when in drive/vibrating
#1
help? noise when in drive/vibrating
I own a 1998 honda accord 4cyl automatic
Basically, when you first put it into drive, like 2-4 seconds later you hear a noise, like something is turning on or checking?? I am not sure what this could be.
The second issue I am having atm, is that when the car is in drive, and your foot is on the brake/ stopped at a red light, the car seems to vibrate more often. There is a "knocking" sound in the engine itself but when stopped it seems like the car itself is twice as shakey.
Any thoughts? It shifts just fine, there isn't any knock when shifting from drive to park/neutral, there isnt a delay when stepping on the gas, and it drives fine. The knocking itself might be a loose engine mount..? or something within the engine "suggestions say clean tranny fluid". And as far as the vibration goes, iv seen anything from " rear suspension lose nut" all the way to " transmission blown" yet it shifts just fine
tkx for any help, matt
Basically, when you first put it into drive, like 2-4 seconds later you hear a noise, like something is turning on or checking?? I am not sure what this could be.
The second issue I am having atm, is that when the car is in drive, and your foot is on the brake/ stopped at a red light, the car seems to vibrate more often. There is a "knocking" sound in the engine itself but when stopped it seems like the car itself is twice as shakey.
Any thoughts? It shifts just fine, there isn't any knock when shifting from drive to park/neutral, there isnt a delay when stepping on the gas, and it drives fine. The knocking itself might be a loose engine mount..? or something within the engine "suggestions say clean tranny fluid". And as far as the vibration goes, iv seen anything from " rear suspension lose nut" all the way to " transmission blown" yet it shifts just fine
tkx for any help, matt
#2
Check engine light ever On?
Broken motor mount/s are not uncommon on Accord 4-cylinder engines. You will need to observe engine movement and mount closely w/ car in drive/reverse and firmly holding the brakes to prevent car movement.
Briefly apply throttle to apply engine torsion load to motor mounts. Closely inspect the front motor mount (easy to see) and rear motor mount during these loadings in forward and reverse. The rear motor mount can be seen from pax side w/ a light. It may help to remove the air intake duct.
Sometimes the idle air control valve can be gummed up preventing idle speed control and causing idle to dip too low when stopping w/ engine in drive. When idle drops below about 700 rpm, vibration increases substantially. If you see idle rpm dropping below 700 rpm w/ trans in drive, then something's wrong w/ idle air control valve function.
good luck
Broken motor mount/s are not uncommon on Accord 4-cylinder engines. You will need to observe engine movement and mount closely w/ car in drive/reverse and firmly holding the brakes to prevent car movement.
Briefly apply throttle to apply engine torsion load to motor mounts. Closely inspect the front motor mount (easy to see) and rear motor mount during these loadings in forward and reverse. The rear motor mount can be seen from pax side w/ a light. It may help to remove the air intake duct.
Sometimes the idle air control valve can be gummed up preventing idle speed control and causing idle to dip too low when stopping w/ engine in drive. When idle drops below about 700 rpm, vibration increases substantially. If you see idle rpm dropping below 700 rpm w/ trans in drive, then something's wrong w/ idle air control valve function.
good luck
#3
The check engine light has not turned on once yet. As for idling below 700rpms, I am going to check that out today, might be it considering theres a slight noise when driving itself that sounds like air intake. As for when you put it into drive, 5sec later it sounds like when a printer slides from 1 side to the other when printing. It is real quick and noticable
#5
Yeah uhh.. was just checking car out again and its been cold/snow blizzard up in new jesery last weekend. Messin with pulleys from belts and valves just twistin to make sure tight, and apparently the vibration is gone.
as for the noise still, the knock is most likely part of the engine when its cold, and there is still the noise that i have never heard before. if i turn off the radio and just listen, and turn the vents from lets say..vents for face to vents for feet, it makes a semi long noise like a vrrrr. but a few seconds after putting it into drive, it makes that same sound, but it only last for 3 secs. not sure what it is still. assuming its a late sensor due to the cold
as for the noise still, the knock is most likely part of the engine when its cold, and there is still the noise that i have never heard before. if i turn off the radio and just listen, and turn the vents from lets say..vents for face to vents for feet, it makes a semi long noise like a vrrrr. but a few seconds after putting it into drive, it makes that same sound, but it only last for 3 secs. not sure what it is still. assuming its a late sensor due to the cold
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post