This sounds like it may be a problem when the engine heats up and you go into closed loop mode.

Check the IAT sensor for P0113. It is on back of the upper part of the intake manifold near the drivers side of the car. You may have damaged it during the installation.

P0141 won't cause driving problems.

There are two codes IIRC for the Vtec system. You should find out the code. Check the wiring to the Vtec solenoid. Installation of the engine could have damaged this too.

 

If there was an issue with said IAT sensor, could it be dirty perhaps? If it is, can i clean it? or is it something that just needs to be replaced?

And yes, the plastic housing that connects the Vtec solenoid to the wiring harness broke, and exposed wire that i just shoved into the female connector of wiring harness, easy fix though because i have an extra vtec control solenoid...

If my memory serves me correctly, i believe the wire "pulled" out of the plastic housing on the IAT sensor as well, but i just pushed it back in there, Seems to happen easily if you dont hold firm on the plastic clip..

 

You are sort of answering your questions. The two components you are getting codes had some kind of wiring or sensor damage.

One each component, did you damage the connector/wiring on the wiring harness side or the sensor side?

 

On the Vtec Solenoid, I damaged the connector side of the unit, not the wiring harness itself..

On the IAT to be quite honest, im not sure that i even pulled the wires out of the plastic boot, that connects it to the Sensor itself... I cant tell if I had just by looking at it, I do remeber doing that to a sensor but cant think of which one it was

 

ok so i checked the IAT sensor, it seems good.. I think why it through the code is because i unhooked it while the engine was runing once, as far as the problem, Still there.

One thing i forgot to mention, is when the car is f ing up SOMETIMES it will backfire through the intake?? but only like once or twice. Ive checked the EGR valve, no problem there, the Vaccuum lines and everything else i can think of, changed fuel pressure regulator, vtech solenoid.

 

No one? Hmmm...

 

Got your PM, thought it would be better to post on here. Right now you are sort of guessing the problem. You will have to do some diagnostics.

Lets do some basics items. Go to the common diy thread and click on the online manuals link. That thread has a hond-tech link where you can get a 94 shop manual, which is almost identical to your 97.

In the electrical section, there is a part for wire harness and ground locations. Find the grounds in the engine bay and make sure they are connected. G101 on the driver's side of the intake manifold is an important one.

The OEM vacuum lines have numbers on them. Make sure you connected them properly. There was some that could get confusing. I know this information is in the shop manual or on a sticker under your hood.

Now that you replaced or inspected the damaged items, you still are assuming that they are working properly. Remove the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse for a minute to clear out the engine computer. Drive the car and see if the CEL turns on or the D4 light starts flashing. Then check for fresh codes. You can use a scanner on the connector behind the ash tray or you can short the service connector under the glove box like the OBD1 accords (see how to check engine codes in the common diy thread).

Do you have a volt-ohm meter? You may need this to do some test.

 

Ok so I replaced the Vtech Control Solenoid, found no issues with the IAT sensor, and cleared my check engine light,so far theres no CEL thats come on again, and Ive driven the car about 200 miles and it is still messing up on me

Ive replaced the fuel pressure regulator, wires, plugs, checked the rotor, and ignition coil, all are fine... the car seems to be messing up even sooner now, where as before it would take about 10 minutes, it now seems to only take a couple, but then again it has been hot here lately so im guessing the engine warms up faster.

When i went to AutoZone to have them scan and clear the CEL the man i was speaking with was a honda junkie as well, he had told me that he had done the same swap and that same problem had haunted him...

He told me that he was running the car without a thermostat, and the ECU was either:

A) Running as a warm engine would run, but its actually cool so its not giving enough, or is giving to much fuel...

B) Running as a cool engine, but is actually hot, and so it compensates the amount of fuel to give to the engine, and is to much or to little????

So he told me he replaced the thermo, and problem solved... Im not doughting that he may have fixed his problem, but the reason im so skeptical, is because i ran my engine for like 2 weeks, and around a 1000 miles W/O a thermo, and it ran just fine until one day going down the highway it started fin up on me...

ANY thoughts on this matter would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

Were you having similar problems before the swap?

 

PAHonda, I did have a smiliar problem about a year ago before the swap, and i dont know what it was, i had ran seafoam through the tank, checked for vaccuum leaks, cleaned egr valve, checked fuel pressure regulator and changed fuel filter... it continued for about a week after all that then just quit doing it!

This one has been doing it for two weeks and ive done all the things i did that I did the last time, with no resolution... Ive got a video of what the car is doing once it gets up to temp...
You can see part 2 and 3 also...please see an tell me what you think