Hesitation Stumbling on acceleration
#11
Took car for short drive and did not manifest problems when engine was cold. Problem started up when engine began to warm up. Engine does reach operating temp just below middle of temp gauge. To my knowledge the 02 sensor is the original. Also sprayed fine water mist on plug wires and distributor cap in the dark-no sparking noted. If there was a problem with the 02 sensor would it not trigger a code 1? Thanks for your help.
#12
Based on posts to this forum, ccasionally, a new O2 sensor will correct a drivability problem, even when no DTC is presented. If O2 sensor is old as you say, a new sensor is relatively inexpensive and may make a difference. A Denso O2 sensor is readily available and inexpensive; rockauto, ebay, amazon.
good luck
good luck
#15
The Rock Auto site shows a Denso with a Female and one with a Male connector-what is the one most commonly found in these cars. I have note yet disconnected it yet so I really do not know which one it has. This model was made in Japan if that has any significance. Thanks.
#16
Apparently, the LX and DX models share the female connector and EX uses the male connector. See APWI brand O2 sensors.
You should probably check first in any case to avoid hassle of a return.
good luck
You should probably check first in any case to avoid hassle of a return.
good luck
#18
Replaced the 02 sensor tonight and definitely needed to be changed-grayish coating noted. Looks like the original NGK sensor. Took car for a drive and same problem. Checked code-CEL light on but no codes thrown-does a code 0 indicate no codes? One thing I noticed is that when the car is in park the I am able to rev the engine with no problems noted. The problem occurs when I drive the car.
#19
I'd probably install your old ECU and recheck for codes. This may be a problem with the TCU, because those have a higher rate of failure on the 90-93 accords. If you can find one a cheap one at a u-pull-it junkyard, that would probably be my next step.
There is also an important ground that is bolted to the thermostat housing. I would disconnect that ground, clean the bolt and eyelet with a wire brush or sandpaper, then reattach. That grounds the ECU and a bunch of other items.'
Have you checked the fluid level in the transmission? When was the last time it was changed?
EDIT: The first set of numbers (37820) means that this is the Honda ECU. The next three (PT3) covers a set of years/model accords it works on. The A5? means it is an ECU for an automatic transmission. An A0? is typically for a manual transmission. Look up the ECU and TCU part number for your accord on a site like hondapartsnow.com. Make sure you get the 37820-XXX-A5 the same, A50, A51, A52... are updated versions of the same PT3 AT ECU. Hope this makes sense.
There is also an important ground that is bolted to the thermostat housing. I would disconnect that ground, clean the bolt and eyelet with a wire brush or sandpaper, then reattach. That grounds the ECU and a bunch of other items.'
Have you checked the fluid level in the transmission? When was the last time it was changed?
EDIT: The first set of numbers (37820) means that this is the Honda ECU. The next three (PT3) covers a set of years/model accords it works on. The A5? means it is an ECU for an automatic transmission. An A0? is typically for a manual transmission. Look up the ECU and TCU part number for your accord on a site like hondapartsnow.com. Make sure you get the 37820-XXX-A5 the same, A50, A51, A52... are updated versions of the same PT3 AT ECU. Hope this makes sense.
Last edited by PAhonda; 01-15-2014 at 11:04 PM.
#20
Transmission fluid level full and color pink. Probably due for a change-don't really know when the last time was. I picked up some ATF fluid at O'Reilly's and asked the guy if they can check ECM's off the car-he stated yes-is it really possible to check these off the vehicle-I am a little skeptical. Will clean ground connection and reinstall old ecm this weekend and see what happens.