I still suspect the battery. You also have symptoms of a bad ignition switch. When the car is running low on power, the radio would be the first thing to shut down, so I wouldn't be concerned about that. Lastly, there could be a short in the starter lead, but I'd look into the switch first.

Also, how was the battery tested? Was it tested for charging and under load? The green eye is worthless!

 

Shoot... my wife's car had a brand new alternator replaced it in (it was 4 days old), but she left her lights on over night...
Come to the next morning when we had to jump it, and it killed the alternator... so says Saturn anyway....

I have seen before where a few jumps can toast an alternator, new or not... so I wouldn't rule that out...

The battery might have good cells, and is fine under load, but is it CHARGED.. that's the question right? Or does a test actually charge as well? I've never had to test my own batteries and find the result before (knock on wood)..

IF you jumped it and it started fine, that's still tending to point out a battery, to me anyway..
As for driving around charging... It kinda relates to what I was just saying as it really puts a lot of load for a long time on the alternator, and isn't really the preferred way to charge a battery. Also, and this might be just me, but I make it a habit when I use that technique to DRIVE (not just letting it run, you have to have a load) for at least 30 minutes, without headlights or radio (unless you're driving at night, but you're kind of defeating the purpose).

A quick and easy test I've used in the past for an alternator is to have the car running, and remove the battery terminal connection.. if it dies at all, you definitely have a bad alternator.. it can be rebuilt, or have new bushings replaced if it dies slowly (like a slow sputter of sorts). Of course, this also isn't the preferred method of testing...

AutoZone should/could test both your battery and alternator for free.. It might have been my car, but I believe you have to remove the alternator for them to test it.
The battery test will take a while, but the alternator test i believe is a 5 minute run or less.
I wouldn't do a single thing until I got both of those tested first.

 

Along the same lines as the battery terminals, did you check and clean the other ends of the battery cable? Make sure that the ground is secure where it bolts to the frame. Check that the cable going from the alternator to the batter is ok too.

Is your car still under warranty?

 

I'm throwing in my 2 cents. I seriously believe it's a battery OR Alternator issue. EVERYTHING you've described is an electrical/power issue, if your connections are good, TIGHT, and clean, and it started/ran for a bit but still had some power issues while driving it sounds like it's more your alternator. Jump start the car, drive over to your local auto parts store (bring your tools) have your charging/electrical system tested, one of the two is bad, replace it in the parking lot and enjoy your holiday!

 

Werd.

and as mentioned before...pull your positive batt. cable while the car is running...if it dies...your Alt. is shot and needs a new or rebuoild ( I always just buy a new one)

everything you describe is pointing DIRECTLY to a batt/Alt problem with a possible of a bad ignition switch....but I would leave that out to the last thing....check the easy things that go out first....first

 

Well the verdict is in. Took it to Honda and the retard that checked our battery was just flat out wrong. The battery had one bad cell and wouldnt put out the amps required to start or even operate the radio. So now we haveanew battery and a strong running Honda again.

Thanks everyone!

 

Thanks for posting the fix.