Hi all,
As the title reads, I'm a Honda Newb. I Just bought a 91 Accord DX 4dr from a guy in my neighborhood. I got this car for my wife who needed a commuter. The car has 245K and had a fresh longblock installed at 205K so it runs really well. Unfortunately after driving for a week the clutch is out(i think) I'm a auto tech student at the Lonestar and will be putting it on the lift on Tuesday. I really need some advise/troubleshooting tips for diagnosing the clutch/TOB/slave issues.
1. Its squeeling like a stuck pig when I depress the clutch.
2. The shifter is very notchy in and out of gears
3. sometimes fights gear entry altogether.
4. toasty clutch smell

I talked to my little bro (mech school grad who works in a collision shop) and he said the TOB is shot(squeeling) and the slave is bad(notchy shifter) and the slave may be leaking(clutch shot due to contamination). I am very capable of almost any auto work but any tips or pointers would be awesome. I will most likely be doing this with little help and really dont want to remove the entire trans or go through a full undercarriage disassembly in order to do a clutch kit job. Thanks everyone and i look forward to years of corrispondance with you all. I have big hopes for this little car and cant wait to add my own personal touches to it to make it ours

 

First, I'll move this over to General Tech where it belongs. WELCOME newbie!

Can't change the throw-out bearing without removing the trans.... sorry.

The notchy-ness might be a warped clutch disk. It drags a bit so the synchros are doing their job blocking you out. Along with the toasty clutch smell, that sorta means you can get prepared for trans. removal.

If the slave cylinder is leaking then just replace it. Otherwise get some help to check out the slave. Watch the throw-out lever while someone pumps the clutch pedal. It should move back & forth 12mm or so. Any less you might have air so bleed it.

After pumping the clutch pedal, hold it down. As it's being held down, the throw-out lever SHOULD NOT move. If it slowly moves back towards the slave cylinder, then get a new cylinder. Bleeding probably won't help when it does that.

 

sorry about that, my "Hello" turned into a diatribe about my issues. Won't happen again. Thanks for the move. So i was looking at the shop manual that i located through the HAF and it seems like it isnt too hard to remove the tranny but sure labor intensive. any preferences for an affordable OE replacement clutch pack. by the way $300 is not my idea of affordable. and any tips for the trans drop would be very helpful.

 

I've used LUK, AMS and Dankin...all worked well. You are not needing a hi-pref clutch so call around and get prices and brands. The flywheel needs to be addressed IMO. Check for prices on a new one, if nothing else please get the old one turned at a shop.

Last, with the flywheel off. You'll be looking right at the rear main seal...hum, do you want a leaking rear main 10k down the road?