HVAC DTC code help
#2
I found code description here.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ou-help-59108/
So it says Blower Motor Circuit problem. I checked Blower and it works when connected straight to 12V. I pulled out the transisitor and checked Ohms on post 3&4. It checked out good @ 1500 ohms on the money. I've checked 40 amp fuse and 30 amp fuse under hood. 7.5 amp fuse under dash all are good. What next?
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ou-help-59108/
So it says Blower Motor Circuit problem. I checked Blower and it works when connected straight to 12V. I pulled out the transisitor and checked Ohms on post 3&4. It checked out good @ 1500 ohms on the money. I've checked 40 amp fuse and 30 amp fuse under hood. 7.5 amp fuse under dash all are good. What next?
Last edited by Totally Tuna; 08-29-2014 at 04:28 PM.
#3
1. Describe the problem you are having. For example, does the blower run at the highest blower fan setting?
2. Although you already tested the blower motor by directly applying 12V, here is an easier way the motor could have been tested. The motor already receives 12V battery power at all times, it just needs the ground source.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...accords-59744/
2. Although you already tested the blower motor by directly applying 12V, here is an easier way the motor could have been tested. The motor already receives 12V battery power at all times, it just needs the ground source.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...accords-59744/
#4
We started the car and the fan motor died after about 10 seconds. I have digital dual climate control and videos I've seen fan motor doesn't work for them either on high. I ran the diagnostics and had "N". which is Blower Motor Circuit Problem. I used a video on Youtube for advice and it showed a bad transistor where leg 3&4 showed open circuit on ohm meter and stated that a good transistor would read between 1400-1500. Mine measures 1500. I'm glad you know of easier ways to test the motor, but I don't think it maters how I test it. When connected to 12v it works.
#5
I didn't says it matters how you tested the motor, just explaining a different way; which will lead into the following information...
The control module provides the ground circuit (-) to operate the blower motor. The positive side (+) of the blower motor wiring is always hot, it just needs the negative ground (-) source through power transistor; the ground sources are controlled by the climate control module.
It still may be a faulty blower power transistor. The blower power transistor module consist of several components: transistor, thermal cutoff, resistors, and capacitor. The thermal cutoff can be faulty.
Other than the power transistor, then the control module or wiring would be the next things to check.
The control module provides the ground circuit (-) to operate the blower motor. The positive side (+) of the blower motor wiring is always hot, it just needs the negative ground (-) source through power transistor; the ground sources are controlled by the climate control module.
It still may be a faulty blower power transistor. The blower power transistor module consist of several components: transistor, thermal cutoff, resistors, and capacitor. The thermal cutoff can be faulty.
Other than the power transistor, then the control module or wiring would be the next things to check.
#6
Thanks RB. I'm not that handy, but I didn't want to take it somewhere if it was something simple I could fix myself. I've read about people checking all the Control Module wiring. I'm going to skip that and just try changing transistor. It seems that most times it solves the problem. I've only read one post where the guy bought a used control module to fix the issue. I wrenched by back pretty good trying to get to the screws that hold that thing in place.
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11-18-2011 06:20 PM