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  #1  
Old 07-26-2006 | 02:16 PM
hyrumbradshaw's Avatar
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Default Hydro-lock

Ok so I have a CAI on my 1998 accord ex v6 sedan. Last night was a huge rain storm and i was driving in the rain, tried going thru a puddle, did not realize the size of it and my car died in the middle of the puddle. Engine would not crank after that and left it there overnight. This morning I went and took the spark plugs out and cranked the engine and a stream of water was ejected from the cylinders, thats bad. Anyway I replaced my CAI with the OEM (in case of insurance). What is the possible solutions or problems with the situation and what should I do? Will it dry out and run like normal? or should I file a claim NOW?
 
  #2  
Old 07-26-2006 | 07:43 PM
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Default RE: Hydro-lock

Have you tried cranking it since putting the stock intake back on and ejecting the water from the cylinders? There's always a chance that the ingestion of water didn't hurt anything (although somewhat unlikely), but I would try a few things before giving up hope...

First, while the plugs are out, spray inside the cylinders with some fogging oil. You can get it in the marine section at Walmart or any other auto parts store. I have used the Pennzoil brand before and it seems to be pretty good stuff. Give all 6 cylinders a liberal spraying... then get in the car and crank on it to see if you can get it to turn over. If it doesn't turn over, or if it makes some really strange noises... you're probably out of luck without some major repairs.

If it turns over normally and sounds normal (other than not cranking), put the plugs back in and try to crank it. You might also want to spray some intake and manifold cleaner into the intake tube... and try cranking again (if it didn't crank after putting the plugs back in).

If you can get it to crank... immediately change the oil... run it for a bit... then change it again...

The key is, provided you didn't do any damage to the upper engine, to get that water out of the engine as quickly as possible. Otherwise rust will begin to set in and then you won't have any choice but to have major engine work done...

I'm sure others will have some things to add... but I would get some fogging oil in those cylinders as quickly as I could (or you could use a little motor oil I guess... just don't over do it)... HTH
 
  #3  
Old 07-26-2006 | 07:55 PM
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Default RE: Hydro-lock

if you are lucky you didn't break anything but usually this isn't the case....

my guess is that your engine will throw a rod. This is due to the fact that water does not compress and that will 100% of the time resullt in something bending (usually the connecting rod). Even though that piston has stopped, the crank is still turning and that is why the connecting rod associated with the hydrolocked piston(s) will bend

Replacement will cost you about $6K so your car will be totalled if you go through insurance.
 
  #4  
Old 07-26-2006 | 08:58 PM
Chiovnidca's Avatar
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Default RE: Hydro-lock

I'd check it for a bent rod before trying to start it. It's alot easier and cheaper to replace a rod than the whole engine. Pull out the spark plugs and measure down to the tops of the pistons with a rod or screwdriver. 1 and 4 should measure the same and 2 and 3 should be the same.
 
  #5  
Old 07-26-2006 | 09:43 PM
hyrumbradshaw's Avatar
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Default RE: Hydro-lock

well I had it towed to the dealership and they said it def needs a new engine so thats what i will have to do and its better that insurance gets involved than me having to cough up 6k for the engine. My car is nothing special although it does have a new transmission replaced last year etc but if they need to total it thats what will happen.
 
  #6  
Old 07-26-2006 | 09:47 PM
YeuEmMaiMai's Avatar
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Default RE: Hydro-lock

Its a V6 so it might be just a tad bit different...lol
 
  #7  
Old 07-26-2006 | 10:04 PM
poff1986's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 214
From: madison WI
Default RE: Hydro-lock

Yea or if you feel so inclined you could put it in urself. Just get a junk yard motor. First u wanna disconnect anything connected to the engines components like clips and sensors and exhaust and such. then support the engines bottom with a jack or something of the sort and loosen the motor mounts...Then you will need to keep the engine supported and slowly remove the subframe bolts and work it down to the ground..You can also rent a engine hoist from a local Uhaul and lift it out of the top its your preference but id get the engine hoist lift it out the top and disconnect the transmisison. Now using the new (junk yard) motor compare parts and swap any old parts off the bad motor that the new motor is missing...reinstall the transmission to the new engine and drop into the car..and do the removal steps backwards to install. Make sure your connections are all good and that no sensors are left unplugged.


PS- you may also want to have a timing belt replaced with the engine because it would be easier to do with the engine out rather than 20K down the road when its in....just a thought
 
  #8  
Old 07-26-2006 | 10:23 PM
lightshow's Avatar
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Default RE: Hydro-lock

damn that cold air really screwed you over....sorry to rub it in. get a shorty next time, cause your insurance isnt going to give you much for your car.
 
  #9  
Old 07-26-2006 | 10:43 PM
RTexasF's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,384
From: Brownsville, TX 78521
Default RE: Hydro-lock

Damn that's a tough lesson. To prevent this for others with a CAI------------------

http://www.tirerack.com/intake/aem/air_bypass_valve.jsp
 
  #10  
Old 07-27-2006 | 01:59 AM
deserthonda's Avatar
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From: In The Desert ( Sahara ? )
Default RE: Hydro-lock

I hope i am wrong...

........but do not be surprised if the insurance company will not try to pay the damage,, they might say that if it was a stock air box this would not have happened ..and it is all on your laps for altering stock components on the car .......You know ins companies always trying to find a way out ..
 


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