That volt tester will not flash if you are testing the red/blk wire. The injectors always have 12V on the one plug, and it never changes. The other side completes the circuit by switching to ground. This side is what turns the injector on and off.

Are you testing the voltage with the electrical connector off of the injector? If that volt tester can detect voltage by touching the wire, hook up the injectors and probe the wire that is NOT the red/blk wire. It should flash the light on your volt tester.

 

exactly what do you mean by probe, and you want me to connect the plugs back to the injectors?

if not: I did test it and got no voltage from the non blk/red side.

 

IFyou can make contact with the wires while it's plugged in, it should be like this:
Put the black wire of the meter on a good ground.
Red/black wire should havevoltage all the time.
The other wire of each injectorshould switch quickly between voltage & none.

If you test it with the wires unplugged...
Black wire of meter on ground again.
Red/black wire should still have voltage all the time.
Now set the meter to "Continuity". Other wire should switch quickly between continuity & NOT.

 

Well I did test the other wire, the non black and red side. There is no blink at start up.
so is it the relay or the ECU, that sound like the two main culprits. This test was done with the wire off the injectors. Also I was looking on Ebay for injector resisters and found a picture of thing right by the connection to the windshield wipers, the thing with hte ridges, i had no idea that had something to do with the injectors. Is that any possibliity.

 

Your are not testing the grounding side of the injectors correctly. JimBlake assumed that you had a digital volt meter.

If you can get to a radio shack, pick up a small 8 watt bulb, a simple base to screw the bulb into, some wire with aligator clips. It can't cost more than $5. A digital volt meter would cost you ~$15.

You basically want to hook up the light in place of the injector. If the light flashes when you are trying to start the car, the ECU is fine.

For an example of the bulb I'm talking about, look at the tegger site. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...up-bulb-on.jpg

That is a test for an ignitor, but you get the idea of what the test light looks like. You might need to break a paperclip in half to stick in the injector connector to be able to use the alligator clips.

 

Yeah, I assumed you had a meter - I wasn't paying attention to everything in earlier posts.The ground side of the circuit has to be tested for continuity, not voltage.

If you're using a test lamp, hook it up BETWEEN the 2 wires for each injector.

A multi-meter is a good tool to have.

 

okwell i did the light bulb test and the light did not flash it stayed on.

 

OK before i get get this straight you guys need to let me know, is the relay ok?
OK for the testing if i plug the bulb in both sides of the injector connection and turn then, key to the on position should that tell me if the ECU is OK? remeber i cannot start the car.

 

Put the light between the red/black wire & ground.
Key on, it should light up solid.

Then put the light between the 2 injector wires. Key ON it should NOT light up.

 

ok they are both giving me a light. did you see the part of the post where i said fuel pump runs non stop.