Hi all,

I'm having a few issues with my 2003 Accord and in an attempt to troubleshoot, I believe I may have done more damage than good! Everything besides a compustar autostart is stock.

I have been having issues with my (1) rear driver side door lock and (2) front passenger window.

Issue 1- Rear Driver side door lock - The rear driver door lock does not work using the autostart, key, or inside door panel locks. I have to manually push and pull the lock to lock/unlock the door. I figured since it was a single door it must be the actuator, so I tossed a new one in and the lock still doesn't work.

Issue 2- Front Passenger Window - I have swapped fuses with the rear (working) windows and the fuses are fine. When I use the driver or passenger side window buttons I can hear a click, followed by another. I assume this means that fuses/relays are functioning and power is making it to the window? I figured since it is just a single widow it is most likely a window motor, is this correct? This weekend I will test the motor by briefly applying 12V, is this the correct way to test this?

Here is where the story gets interesting! Yesterday I figured my door and window issues may be related and decided to test my drivers door master switch. I found posts regarding window testing and I grounded the wrong wire. I read about a white/green wire and somehow when I went to do the test it turned into the green/white instead...OOPS! I immediately saw a spark and pulled the ground but now I have some issues. For the record, I did try grounding the correct wire and the passenger window did not function.

After my mistake, I noticed:

-driver window no longer functions, it doesn't click, or make any attempt to move
-the driver side lock didn't work until I pressed the passenger side BUT it only works now when the car is running (passenger side works after turning off car)
-keys do not work (trunk, lock, unlock) I tried the reprogramming sequence: II, lock, off, II, lock, off,x5-10ish and it does not work. My autostart still works (unlock/lock)
-I have no lights on the driver side windows (that little green glowing bar on the switch)
- when I press the window lock button down, the driver side window switch glows but still fails to work
-my two rear windows work just fine from the master switch
-everything else, cd, ac, heat, sunroof, mirrors appear to be 100% functional

I am leaning towards a window regulator/motor for the passenger window, no ideas for my rear door lock, and now a new master switch/controller unit for everything else..LOL any other ideas?


Sorry for the long post but I tried to be as detailed as possible.
I post results of anything I do this weekend

 

1. When you grounded the Grn/Wht wire, you essentially shorted the circuit. Most likely Fuse No. 27 (20A) in the under-dash fuse box is blown. However, while you're checking/replacing that fuse, also check the No. 7 (10A), No. 8 (20A), and No. 21 (7.5A) fuses to be sure nothing else was blown.

2. No comment at this time regarding rear left door lock.

3. For testing the power window motor, you can directly apply 12 volt power and ground. The wire terminals to do this on the motor side of the grey 6-P connector would be where the Red and Red/Blu wires connect to.

 

Thank you for the help!

I checked the fuses and the driver door (27) was blown. As a temporary fix, I replaced with sunroof (28) and I have all my driver window controls/key back! I swapped fuse 8 with the now working 27 and everything continued to function. The other two fuses appeared OK upon visual inspection. Should I test them more or just replace anyway?

The passenger window still just clicks. I will test the motor on Saturday and report back with that.

Rear door still does not function. Can I test the actuator? I bought the part new from Honda but maybe I got a bad one?

 

I just tested my passenger window regulator as described and I believe the motor is dead. Nothing happened, no noise or attempt to move the glass.

I think this test shows I need a new regulator/motor?

 

The motor is probably dead if no sound, movement, etc. Did you alternate applying power and ground between those wires? Switching them one way, makes it goes up; the other way, makes it go down

 

yes I alternated between the two posts and got the same results. Thanks for helping diagnose the regulator. I will order a new one and install it!

As far as the rear door lock, can I test the actuator the same way I just did this window motor? It is brand new from honda but maybe its a dud?

 

Yes, you can do the test similarly. Should only be 2 terminals on the door actuator motor side.

 

thanks, I am pulling it apart now and will report back

 

I tested the actuator and it is working just fine.

I then checked for power to the unit by touching the 2p connected with a multimeter and pressing the driver door unlock/lock switch. I did not see a change in voltage at that 2p connector when I do this. I assume no power is making it to the actuator?

 

Test the door lock **** switch. Unplug the gray 3P connector from the actuator. Test for continuity between terminals 1 (Blk/Red) and 3 (Blk). There should be continuity when you press the switch is in the UNLOCK position and no continuity in the LOCK position.