I tested continuity at the 3p connector and it functions just as described.

 

It may be the wiring or the connector at the door jamb then. The power door locks are part of the multiplex integrated control system, since the other doors works, it would be unusual for it to be a MICU problem if the other doors work. Check the wiring and connector at that door jamb.

 

Is there an actual connector or is it a bundle of wires that runs straight from the door through the rubber case and into the door jam? I wiggled all of those wires while hitting lock/unlock with no response from the lock

 

There is a gray 10P connector located in the left B pillar that connects the floor wire harness (left side) to left rear door wire harness. The door jamb is where the wires run through.

 

To access the connector, the interior front and rear sill panels and B pillar panel needs to be removed.

Has the car been is an accident before, where wiring may have been cut?

Some of the wiring for the left rear door lock, runs from the MICU at the driver's fuse box, along the floor harness and connects to the left door wire harness.

 

OK I was confused as to the location of the connector. I removed my interior panels but did not find the 10p connector. I found a yellow (airbag?) connector. I did find a gray 10p connector on the outside of the b-pillar on the pillar side of the rubber boot that goes from the door to the pillar. Everything on the connector seemed like it was tight and fit.

The car was in an accident in 2004ish... the door worked just fine up until about 8 months ago. It was a small fender bender with some hood damage, I don't believe any wiring was cut.

 

I may have to think about this.

On the 2P connector, those wires supply the power (+) to the actuator. Terminal 1 (Yel/Blk) would supply (+) for LOCK. Terminal 2 (Yellow) would supply (+) for UNLOCK.

On the 3P connector, terminal 3 (Blk) is ground (-) coming from G601 (left side of floor), terminal 1 (Blk/Red) allows the ground (-) from G601 to come through the switch in the UNLOCK position. Terminal 2 on the 3P connector is unused.

 

The wiring routing diagram showed the 10P connector at the B pillar; but, didn't show with certainty whether it was accessible from outside the B pillar or behind the interior trim; that was why I mentioned removing the interior trim. It sounds like removing the interior trim wasn't necessary.

If you have side airbags, you may want to be very careful in that area. Disconnect the negative battery cable for several minutes if you have to before buttoning everything back up if there are airbags in that area.

 

With a voltmeter, touch the red lead to pin 9 (Yel/Blk wire) of the gray 10P connector and the black lead of the meter to chassis/body ground. There should be voltage in the LOCK position. If there is voltage, touch the black lead to pin 1 (Blk) of the 10P connector, is there still voltage?


Next, touch the red lead to pin 8 (Yel wire) of the gray 10P connector and the black lead of the meter to chassis/body ground. There should be voltage in the UNLOCK position. If there is voltage, touch the black lead to pin 1 (Blk) of the 10P connector, is there still voltage?

Edit: If you backprobe the 10P connector, you do not have to disconnect it. If you disconnect it to test, then you'll probably have to use the LOCK and UNLOCK at the driver's door master switch.

 

Great, I was going to ask if I could leave it plugged in and test the backside of the 10 connector. I will do the tests you described above and report back tomorrow.