Please clarify what hose you're talking about. The hoses to the IAC valve are both coolant hoses. All air connections to & from the IACV are internal passageways NOT HOSES.

Fuel-trim is harder for him to read, as his car (1995) is OBD-1.

Still, it's good to check & fix ANY vacuum leaks.

 

My bad...I thought he had a 99, which has an air assist hose from the intake to the IAC, & is prone to blocking.

 

Still no solution i sprayed all my gaskets and the whole motor down with carb cleaner no change in idle. I finally got my vaccume gauge. Am i just looking for steady pressure in the lines or a certain reading?

 

Are you unable to adjust the base idle to 550? If you can get 550 then just go through the reset & warmup (the rest of that procedure).

 

Im unable to get it to stay consistent. Something keeps closing the iacv and it wobt adjust up past 500 without taking the idle screw almost the whole way out. When i finally got the iacv to not close i had to adjust the screw to idle at 400 then the iacv holds it at 600. If i adjust it any higher the valve closes and stops working. And still only holds it at like 500 or 600. Where ever the screw is set. When i put it in gear or turn lights/blower on it gets dangerously close to stalling.

 

Take a look at your RPM scale on the tachometer. The first mark past 0 rpm is 500 (not 250). The next mark is 750, then 1000. Set the base idle to 550 with the IACV unplugged. Then remove the backup radio fuse for a minute and let the car relearn the idle.

Just want to be sure you are reading the scale properly.

 

Oh yeah, I forgot about the goofy markings on the tachometer below 1k.

 

Cannot find the meaning of FITV. Can you help?

 

Fast Idle Thermo Valve

There is a link for cleaning in the sticky at the top of this forum; "Common DIY and Other Info. Threads."

 

I have a 1999 Honda Accord, 4-dr, V6, EX w/leather and 202,000 miles. I have completely cleaned the throttle body and all associated equipment. It was a disaster, but used a tooth brush and cleaners. Looks quite clean. My question is can I disassemble the IAC control that had two screws to attach to the underside of the throttle body. Mine has one gasket with three holes in the gasket. The dealer said not to disassemble it for fear of potential future leaks, but their cost was $210.62. They identify it as "Rotary Air Control Valve Set".
O'Reilly's sells it for just over $90. The two torks screws are terribly rusted and I've been told by others that I can remove them by grinding and replacing with new, but it would be a lot easier to get inside the body and spring mechanism to throughly clean it. Any thoughts on my direction?