On Saturday my car died on me and would not start. The engine turned over fine and would appear to start but as soon as I released the ignition key the engine died. I also noticed that there was no dash lights when switched to the II position. After a while I found that if I hold the ign. key between the start and II position the engine would run fine.

I replaced the ignition switch not the key tumbler assy. and thought that was my problem. Hooked everything up turned the key and still had the same problem. I took everything apart again and noticed that the switch had a small amount of play and I had to hold the switch max clockwise before I screwed it down and the car starts fine.
My question is do I need to replace the lock assembly along with the switch or maybe the Niehoff brand replacement is not as precise as the original. It seems odd that I have to apply clockwise pressure on the switch for it to make contact since it is keyed to fit the lock and can only fit one way.
One other thing is that after replacing the switch the first time further checking found that the #9 -7.5 amp start sig. fuse was open. The car starts up and seems to run fine with the fuse in or out. The diagram shows that it feeds the main relay for the fuel pump and the computer. The car runs fine but without this fuse the fuel pump should not run. Any one care to comment?

 

Classic bad ignition switch. Since you got a new one, my best GUESS is like you said. Its not as precise as the OEM switch.

Is it too late to return it & get an OEM switch?

Can you mess with the mounting screws/holes/slots (Dremel tool?) to make the switch line up better?

 

Yes Thanks Jim that is what I did. I drilled out the top side mounting ear so I could apply more clockwise torque. It seems to work fine. What about the #9 ST fuse? If I pull it out the car still starts. I did not try driving the car with the fuse out but the wiring diagram shows that it goes to the main relay for the fuel pump.

 

If it runs with that fuse blown, it seems like some previous owner has mucked around with the wiring. But before going too far, Id like to see a wiring drawing for 92 to be certain.

 

I looked at wiring diagram for a 90 Accord and it appears that fuse 9 (under dash fuse box) controls starter signal to AT, brake check circuit, or clutch interlock for a manual trans. Looks to me like AT car would run w/o fuse, but I don't know what the AT starter signal means.

good luck

 

The starter signal goes to the ECU because it has to use different fuel rates while the engine is being cranked by the starter. I dont know what the AT would do with that information...