Intermittant starting issue '02 V-6
#11
The main fuel relay, aka main relay supplies power to the fuel pump.
When the car is not starting, try spraying starter fluid into the throttle body and see if that can get the engine to run.
To test for power at the fuel pump, you need to backprobe the fuel pump electrical connector. There is an access panel in the trunk of the car to access. The blk/yel wire going to the pump is the power supply from the main fuel relay. Use a volt meter or a 12V test light connected to a good ground to verify you are getting voltage to the fuel pump.
When the car is not starting, try spraying starter fluid into the throttle body and see if that can get the engine to run.
To test for power at the fuel pump, you need to backprobe the fuel pump electrical connector. There is an access panel in the trunk of the car to access. The blk/yel wire going to the pump is the power supply from the main fuel relay. Use a volt meter or a 12V test light connected to a good ground to verify you are getting voltage to the fuel pump.
#12
I just posted this on another help post but have you considered the ERG valve? A bad one can cause rough idling, severe sputtering/kicking and causing the engine to die, especially right after starting (if it will start at all), as in, you turn the key, it starts, it dies after about 2-4 seconds; unless you have your foot on the accelerator, then it'll run. Does it run better above 2000 RPMs? Replacing the one in my Chrysler stopped it immediately. I could smell fuel as well when first starting it up.
Random question about the fuel quality since it was brought up, I've started putting plus in my '99 Accord (it's been running on regular), do you see any issues with that? I drive it about 50 miles a day, 5 days a week, to work.
Random question about the fuel quality since it was brought up, I've started putting plus in my '99 Accord (it's been running on regular), do you see any issues with that? I drive it about 50 miles a day, 5 days a week, to work.
Last edited by Enne; 11-06-2015 at 08:55 AM.
#13
So, why is it *not* recommended to exceed the manufacturer's fuel recommendations? Higher grade fuel actually has a slight reduction in available power, and due to its slightly lower combustion temperature, not only will there be a slight reduction in power and mileage, but there will be a slight increase in combustion chamber deposits.
Long story short, if your Accord calls for Regular fuel, burn Regular fuel.
#15
The main fuel relay, aka main relay supplies power to the fuel pump.
When the car is not starting, try spraying starter fluid into the throttle body and see if that can get the engine to run.
To test for power at the fuel pump, you need to backprobe the fuel pump electrical connector. There is an access panel in the trunk of the car to access. The blk/yel wire going to the pump is the power supply from the main fuel relay. Use a volt meter or a 12V test light connected to a good ground to verify you are getting voltage to the fuel pump.
When the car is not starting, try spraying starter fluid into the throttle body and see if that can get the engine to run.
To test for power at the fuel pump, you need to backprobe the fuel pump electrical connector. There is an access panel in the trunk of the car to access. The blk/yel wire going to the pump is the power supply from the main fuel relay. Use a volt meter or a 12V test light connected to a good ground to verify you are getting voltage to the fuel pump.
Got the plug cover off tonite and have been periodically running out to start the car to catch it acting up and test for voltage on the restart. Of course, so far been starting and running like a champ. And that's the bitch. If it acted up while driving I would have changed the pump already. Seems to be a cold start issue. My son doesn't have a lot of money to throw at it so I gotta be right or eat it myself. He's driving wifey's Pilot so need to fix this.
#16
I just posted this on another help post but have you considered the ERG valve? A bad one can cause rough idling, severe sputtering/kicking and causing the engine to die, especially right after starting (if it will start at all), as in, you turn the key, it starts, it dies after about 2-4 seconds; unless you have your foot on the accelerator, then it'll run. Does it run better above 2000 RPMs?
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