Hello folks, I am in a terrible problem with my car heater.

My heater seems to have stopped working or never tested to work before as this is my first winter of life(I lived in AZ before and moved to MI in summer)

Here are few details:
2000 Honda Accord Coupe, V6 Auto Trans, Automatic HVAC system(bull sh**).

I am pretty sure my coolant levels are good. Car Temp gauge comes to 50% after about 10 -15 mins drive and stable, no over heating no under heating.

I read from some post that Tstat could be stuck open, how to check/verify that and where would that be? I dont mind it doing FULL heat all the time, if it has to.. I can short some wires if necessary to achieve that.. I like heat.. and cooling is just simple as pullling windows down for 20nanoseconds and you are below freezing temps..

I get like feeblly warm air in lower 70's which is crazy when I keep my temp at 90 and Fan at full blow... Please please help..

 

Have you looked for codes?

Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then press the AUTO button and sequentially the OFF button while continuing to press the AUTO button. If there is any abnormality in the system when both buttons are pressed, the temperature indicator will light up the segment (A to N) corresponding to the error. The temperature indicator will then alternate every second between displaying "88" (all segments lit) and the error segment. If there is no abnormality, the segments will not light up.

I'll see if I can get the pic uploaded...one day I'll learn how to do this.

 

Poorman - Does the 2000 accord also have that functionality to test the HVAC? I know the 03+ accords have it. The way you post pictures is either to attach a small one with the manage attachments or put them on a hosting site like photobucket, then use the icon then copy and paste the link to the image in the window that opens up.

Kingofudupi - I am not so familiar with the 00 accords HVAC setup on the dash. Does the temperature control set with a dial or is it set electronically?

If you look in the engine bay, there should be two heater hoses going into the firewall on the passenger side. One of them has a valve with a cable going to it. See if the valve opens/closes when you change the temperature setting. The pic below shows the heater unit inside the car. The hose I am talking about with the valve goes through the grommet of #10 or #13.

 

PA- YES-The text is from the manual I downloaded-as long as it is the auto HVAC, I read the DIY section every now and then, ha ha-you know what I mean...and I don't even own a 6th gen, that is pretty bad/sad. I'll have to look into the photobucket thing.

Anyway, they do look to much the same, read the "dashes" that make up the "eights" translate to letters that give the code, that is the pic I can't seem to post.

 

not sure

EDIT: somewhat worked. OP-Send me a PM with an e-mail address and I will be glad to send.

 

Thanks for pouring in your suggestions however no progress yet.

1) The Self Diagnosis does not work as instructed. ( I got hold of a copy of the manual poorman is referring). Poorman: have you ever done this on a car successfully? If so can you probably write it down a little more accurately wrt timing of buttons pressed(after 1s/for 10seconds etc if any)

2) PAHonda: I have an Auto HVAC which has a dial whose funtion is pretty much electronic: It sets the temp electronically(numbers) and then I think there is a motor/actuator which turns the heater door/valve.

I can hear the motor move(or at least the attempting to move) when I do 60F to 90F traverse in the set point temp.

Please throw more ideas guys.. My radiator is filled to the neck with the overflow bottle also upto max

Feel so bad, I am a SW engineer who worked on Automatic HVAC software for over 2 years and I cant seem to solve my own problems..

I have set up a similar self diagnosis piece for one of the current production vehicle in Europe(most lovely/aggressive car must say :P )

 

As stated by PAhonda, check whether the valve (heater control valve) opens/closes. The valve is located in the engine compartment. Sometimes the cable for the valve comes off or the valve itself become bad.

It could also be the same cable inside the car having a problem.

youtube.com/watch?v=1A2xdsgE4RI

 

Sorry, I have not personally done it before. Was trying to help by posting the procedure.

22-105 talks about testing the Air Mix Control Motor? Hot + to term #1 and ground #2 and the motor should go to max heat?

Again, if I could give any personal experience I would be more than happy to do so....I'll keep reading and see if anything else comes to mind....good luck and let us know what you find.

 

Ok thanks to everyone here, some progress I made.

1) Cable moves to two positions at 60 and 90F settings
90 moves the arm away from firewall and hence the arrow sign on the valve and 60 setting moves the arm close to the firewall.

2) Also a very interesting observation; with reference to redbull's picture
Points 2 and 3 becomes hot when the engine gets hot
but point 4 does not become hot when the fan is blowing and I think it becomes hot if I switch off the HVAC (not very sure will try again).

As I am typing I remebered one more test that I shud do, set the temp to 60 and see if 3 remains cold? should it?

Ok guys now I have a few questions: Does this system have a pump to do the circulation?

How should I proceed now, most the problem seems to be inside the HVAC unit rather than stuffs outside?

 

If the return hose #4 does not get hot, then the heater core could be clogged. Since 3 got hot, then the valve is opening up the coolant.

The water pump pushes the coolant through the engine, radiator, heater core, etc. There is no special pump for the heater.

Removing the heater core is probably a PIA. You can try to unclog the heater core. If you go to ericthecarguy.com, he has a video on page 4 discussing this topic. You may not have an air compressor, but you may be able to force water into the outlet (colder hose #4). You may be able to use a shop vac on inlet hose. You would have to make an adapter. All I would do it take a piece of plastic bigger than your shop vac hose and drill a hole into it smaller than the inner diameter of the hose. Put the plate over the hose for the shop vac, and there is your crude adapter.

It probably would be a good time to replace the engine coolant and the thermostat (use a Honda thermostat) if you have haven't changed the coolant in a while.