94 accord ex
automatic, f22 vtec, intake

ok this is what happened, I took it to the gas station and it ran fine nothing abnormal but when I started it back up to go home it was missing really bad and sounded terrible I shut if off and started it back up and that didnt change anything and when I reved it up it sounded much like a subi so while I was driving it back home it had almost no power however it seemed like after it shifted and it got going it didnt run "as" rough until I slowed back down. I went out this morning and checked for arching from the spark plug wires, loose connections, leaks and the only thing I found was the wires were loose where they connect to the distributor so I unplugged them and pluged them back in and that didnt help, I cant get a code because the only time the check engine light comes on is when I turn the key to start it, it doesnt stay on so I am completely clueless as to what happened or whats going on and Im hoping that maybe it could just be that the plugs and/or wires are bad or the distributor even and not valves or something.. so if anybody has any Idea what could be going on or any suggestions I would appreciate it.
before this happened not all the time but every once in a while when I took off from a stop it would misfire and then run fine, I have only had this car for a few months now and thats really the only problem it has had til now.
also incase anyone is wondering the car has no problem starting up.
Update: ok I started the car again this morning at first it was running like crap but after about 10 seconds it was back to normal until I took it out of park now it does it off and on, I looked under the car and the exhaust is shaking starting from the cat and whatever the problem is it makes the whole car shake, then when I put it in reverse to back it out I pushed on the brake to stop and heard a clunk so I did it again and it made a clunk again when I pushed on the brake it is only doing it when reversing... still clueless!

 

Almost sounds exactly like what a 626 I had was doing. Turned out the intake gasket had a leak and was causing it to run poorly until you got more towards cruising speed. Do you hear any whistling under there? I think another way is to spray some carb cleaner around the edges of the intake while its running and see if it straigtens out. But that's just one thing running rough or misfires could be caused by a wallup of things. Hopefully its something simple!

 

It honestly sounds so bad right now that I cant tell, it definately sounds like its not running on all cyls. when I started it up at the gas station I thought my exhaust was falling off or something, it hesitated to get going and luckily I was just right up the street and so I really just let it coast down the hill on its own because I didnt want to push.

 

I would still check for codes even if the CEL didn't turn on. See: http://www.dhost.info/accordinfo/howto/cel.html Also count the D4 light flashes (transmission codes) in the same manner as the check engine light.

Are the maintenance items up to date like the spark plugs, distributor cap, air filter, and rotor? Replace those items if they are due. Maybe check to see if you have oil in the spark plug tubes. Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and see if gas is leaking or you have a strong smell of gasoline.

 

thank you for ur suggestions I will definately check on that.

 

Turn the car on and pull the spark plug wires out of the head one by one and see if it changes in sound...since you said you don’t think it's running on all cyls. That can narrow down to what cyl isn’t combusting.
It might be something simple as a spark plug(s) are bad

 

I would go with what g22cd5 recommended but add to put a load on the engine. Have someone put it in reverse with foot on brake and raise the RPM a little until the miss is pretty evident. They make plastic pliers to do the job and I would make sure the plug wires come off easy before starting it up.

 

Bad gas?Water in it maybe?Keep us posted with what you find.

 

Do you have aftermarket plug wires? Cheap aftermarket plug wires were causing something similar on my truck. If the wires don't fit tight on the plugs, you need to change them. I put the original plug wires back on, and it ran good again. Good luck finding the problem.

 

Ok I will try removing the wires, and EXV6NIGHTHAWK Im not really sure what u mean by cheap after market plugs and wires but Im not really sure what it has right now, I havent had the car that long and up til now I havent really had any big issues with it and I have not replaced anything on it yet other than brake fluid and oil but whatever ends up being wrong with it Im going to change the plugs and wires either way and I always get ngk platinums. Now I have not tried to get the engine code yet.. I went to the link that PAhonda sent and when it says stick something metal in the plug and connect the two wires (Im assuming the thing with the red end is the quick disconnect they are refering too, so correct me if Im wrong) but would paper clips work for this? and in that case would I touch the paper clips together? I have never done this before. and thursday I started it and once again it ran fine til after a few minutes, I tried ether and that did nothing. somebody told me that the cam sensor or the crank sensor could be the problem but from my understanding the cam sensor would be in the distributor right? and I dont really see it being the crank since how I have absolutely no problem starting the car, but I dont know and as soon as I fix this problem I will definately let u all know what it was.