Yes, I do have the cover and I will make sure. If possible I will post a pics.

#6 is the only 30amp fuse that keeps blowing as soon as I turn the key to the second position. I will disconnect the wiper motor when I get back to the car. Update coming soon.

 

Ok, according to the diagram and the fuse box, fuse #6 is the wiper motor fuse and it uses a 30amp fuse. I disconnected the wiper motor and removed the blown 30amp fuse. I put in a 20amp fuse (did not have a 30amp fuse on hand) and turned the key without reconnecting the wiper motor. The fuse did not blow. I reconnected the wiper motor, turned the wiper switch to the on position, turned the key... the wiper moved up and then the fuse blew.

What now?

 

UPDATE: installed a 40amp fuse just see what would happen. The wiper motor worked. I turned car off, installed 30amp fuse, and now the wipers won't turn off. WTF?

 

Correct amperage fuses are intended to blow before damage is done in the circuit. When a higher amperage fuse is used, more electricity is allowed in the circuit and higher chances of damage can occur. With the motor now staying on after the higher amperage fuse was previously installed may indicate something in the circuit has been damaged, possibly the windshield wiper switch.

 

So why was it blowing in the first place? At least now I know it is not the wiper motor... I think.

 

It's blowing in the first place, as a short probably still exist somewhere.

 

I made an illustration showing possible scenario, etc. The short can also be at a connection, component, etc. and anywhere along the circuit. A short is an accidental connection of a wire to ground or to another wire.

 

You cant even say the motor is good. A motor that's going bad can draw a lot more current than it's supposed to. And that might be blowing your fuses.

Got a multi-meter? It's time to start unplugging stuff & measuring.

 

By all means consider me an electrical IDIOT. I do understand the basic principles of fuses and relays... and I mean basic. I am just very flustered. I mean, from the original post to now it seems that I am chasing an electrical gremlin. The scenarios seem so far fetched it is almost ridiculous.

Has any one solved this problem before or what? In every search some have had this problem and NEVER stated how they resolved it. I have unplugged ECU and motor, cleaned inside of the old wiper switch, installed new wiper switch, WTF?

I will get a volt meter but I couldn't tell you how to use one correctly nor where to start testing. Tomorrow I will go to a U-pull junk yard and get a windshield motor ($10) just in case I fried something inside the motor.

This is truly frustrating. I deserve the uncle of the year award for effort alone... sheesh.

 

You have my vote