I will try to do it myself or have to go back to the mechanic this weekend. the car will stay parked until then. I will +vely come back early next week and report. thank you, that was helpful

 

1.My mechanic did a drain and fill with 3-Quarts of ATF-DW1.
2. There was a code P1739 (AT transaxle concerns, 3rd Clutch Pressure ...)

The mechanic cleared the code and said it by itself would not turn the CEL ON. He said I had nothing to worry.

BTW, We diagnosed the issue for P1457 - it was a frozen solenoid vent valve that ( a standard problem amongst accords driven in the north-eastern USA). I have the part and getting P1457 fixed next week. For the benefit of other folks, if the pressure (used a MityVac) on the 2-way vent solenoid valve was less than 15 (whatever barometric units), the vent solenoid worked (we could hear it click). If we increased the pressure to 25 units, it would freeze. A tap with a screwdriver on the vent would wake it back again.

The first 2 days, shifting was great...It really felt like a brand new car, there was nothing odd. Yesterday morning (4th day), I was on a downhill and the car shifted (around 30-35mph) and I could make out. It has never done this in the past. The CEL came on a half mile later. I drove directly to autozone and checked the codes - (P1457). I asked the autozone employee to check for other codes and was informed P1739 was on.

The P1739 has come back on in less than 2 days of city+highway driving of no more than 50-60 miles. I have NEVER abused the car since buying it. gentle starts (first shift at 2100RPM, followed by shifts at 2500 RPM). In the life of the car, I never have had to push the car beyond 3000RPM...With braking, it has always been gradual.

One odd thing I have observed is, as I am coming to a halt and picking speed up, the car seems to struggle shifting and when i am making a left or right turn, as I drop my speed to make the turn and accelerate the car struggles again and this is very noticeable. However, when I start from a dead halt, I dont notice any difference. A little more googling lead me to this thread. I agree with original poster's comments about shifting after stops or 90 angle turns (http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/f...ad.php?t=41163)

I am headed back to do my 2nd ATF drain and fill...will report on how it worked out.

any pointers please?

 

Before I had all the problems start early this summer, this is what happened one day. I was on a highway driving to work and realized it was on D3 and shifted to D4. The speed around that time was between 75mph since I was late to work. I may have driven 15 miles on D3 on a highway...as crazy as it sounds, this is an anomaly that has never happened in me owning the car.

 

folks,

please help answer my last 2 posts.

I also wanted to know where I can buy "fitting hose barb" - it is the brass spout that connects the transmission cooling line to the radiator...the image on this link shows the brass barbs => Replacement Replacement Direct Fit Radiator - Brand New - JCWhitney

Do I need to buy the radiator if all I needed to replace was the 2 brass barbs?

 

What part is it on this diagram?

RADIATOR HOSE. Fits: 2000 Honda Accord LX (UL) 4 door 4AT | Sons Honda

I am surprised how inexpensive those radiators are ...

 

Hi,

I am buried in expenses - a new radiator + labor is beyond my budget. I am ready to sell the car getting these problems fixed (although it may not even fetch $2400). I have already put in more than $1200 in repairs this year alone :-(

This is the pic - ,

see the brass spout on the radiator, it seems to come as an accessory pack included as part of the radiator.

I looked at the pic you pointed (hondaautomotiveparts has a much better resolution) and yes, the spout IS a part of the radiator. So, I am wondering if there are shops or chains that sell these separately.

thanks

 

Your best bet is to go to a pull-a-part junkyard and get you some brass spouts. Could be the same spouts as the 90-93 and 94-97 Accords.

 

Another option is to pull out the barbs and take them down to a hardware store plumbing section ... Home Depot has a million brass fittings ... you may find what you're looking for.

 

Gentlemen,

Hmm, I didnt know about these options - junkyard and home depot. darn.

This is what we did -

1. John (mechanic) and I went to Advanced Autoparts and bought an Universal cooler for $30. Installed the new cooler in front of the radiator and diverted the inlet/outlet lines from the existing radiator to the new cooler.

*the atf leak appears to be under control now*. With the dedicated ATF cooler can it be assumed the transmission may get a lease of life?

2. Installed genuine Honda Solenoid Vent valve. Code P1457 may be under control (a week's worth of driving shall prove this)

3. Did a 2nd drain and fill with Honda DW-1. John took the vehicle for a spin and I found a surprising difference in the way we drive. John went full throttle right of the blocks and confirmed the vehicle was shifting fine. I tend to accelerate very very slowly almost feeling the vehicle shift before giving some more throttle.

One thing that bothers me is the P1739 code and I am not convinced if this was in any way related to the leak in the cooling lines to the radiator and air bubbles going back to the transmission (MAYBE) tripping this code, any thoughts?

I will report my progress in a couple of days.

 

I'd clear the codes and see what you have from there? The leak "might" have something to do with the 3rd clutch pressure switch code?

I'm slow on reading but if you needed that brass fitting I have a few in the garage.....replaced rad's in a few manual trans cars I've owned - which don't use those - so I threw those into my "one day I'll need/might need this coffee can" . As I do have some auto trans cars.

Or stop by a shop that does radiators, they might have some of those laying around from where they replace a rad in a manual car. If nothing else, the "tube" is just line. So with a bit of brake line, or brass tubing, you could make your own....as long as the nut and fitting into the rad is fine.

But at the end of the day.....the add on cooler will be fine.