Thank you for the offer to help. Also, it did not occur to me that radiator shops may salvage parts of radiators they service. I am reassured by the fact that the add-on cooler is fine. I saw several youtube videos where the add-on is a auxilliary instead of a bypass.

Yesterday morning, I started the car and drove 7 miles (that included 4 stops at traffic lights all before jumping on to highway). I took the exit and stopped at a traffic light. I took my foot of the brake to realize the car had shut itself off. I noticed the battery/oil/srs and maybe the door lights were on. I thought this was it. common sense prevailed, i turned the keys again and it sprung to life. I came to work and tried to make it happen (D4, apply brakes and see if it died), it did not.

concerned, if this was something related to an "ignition coil" or a recall for hondas 98-02, I went to honda in the afternoon and had the "ignition interlock" recall looked into. I dont know what they did. I had an oil change performed and surprisingly 5W20 was used (a first!). I drove the car back to work.

In the evening, I come back, insert the key and wait for all noises to subside, hear the fuel pump relay click and giving enough time, I turn the key. The car started and died immediately. Did I not turn it enough or was there a problem? I turned the key again and held it for 1-2seconds and it started.

I had the throttle body and IAC cleaned 2 months ago. I am beginning to believe it could be bad gas at that shell station close to the mechanic. Although one odd thing I am seeing is in D4, the RPM is not constant (I can hear the noise going up and down and the RPM move slightly up and down, I would say 800-900RPM). Is this common? As I shifted gears from D4-D3-D2-D1 and back to D4, no change in RPMS. Just for peace of mind, I will do an ILP today and report how it went.

Any ideas appreciated, thank you

 

After posting my last comment, I went out started the car, put it in park and held the throttle steady at 2500RPM for 5-6 minutes. Then let it idle for another 5 minutes. I hoped the ILP was complete. Drive to work was fine.

In the evening, I start the car (idled at 1200RPM after a cold start), put it in reverse and the damn car shuts off . I put the car in park, turn the key, it cranks 2-4 times and car started...reversed and was on my way home. I went through 3 lights before jumping on to the highway...I merge and check the dashboard. CEL is on.

I got off the highway and the car started shifting unevenly on local roads, definitely not smooth. The old problem of 90 degree turns or accelerate from a stop or come close to stopping and accelerate, the shifting of the car was noticeable. Is the car running lean? How can I tell? When the car was in park, I noticed that it was idling at 800-900RPM. Is this normal?

I drove to autozone and checked the codes - P1457 and P1739.

Code 1457 and possible causes are:loose fuel cap, vapor canister saturated, failed vent solenoid and failed purge solenoid.

I have a new gas cap (after market) and new OEM purge solenoid installed. I never ever fill gas beyond halfway point, charcoal canister getting saturated owing to overfilling gas tank is clearly not possible. Is there any other reason the charcoal canister can fail?

That leaves the vent solenoid. Any ideas, please help?

 

For the 1457, the purge, two way or shut valve/solenoids are "in play". Without testing hard to say which.

Based upon your location, if it is the shut valve be prepared for the canister as well. Road salt eats away at the screws and many times the canister will get damaged when trying to remove the shut valve.

 

We did check the 2-valve, it was fine. The one thing I dont recall is testing the canister vent solenoid...maybe, we stopped in our tracks given there was an obvious with the purge solenoid.

I am kicking myself for not having tested the last one. sigh. I am headed to the mechanic on tuesday, will update.

 

I'm pretty sure the idle-learn procedure for 2000 goes like this...
1. Unplug IACV & adjust base idle to 550rpm.
2. Plug it back in, allow the car to cool completely.
3. Reset ECU (pull fuse #13 on right-side of dashboard, near right-front door hinges.
4. Start engine without touching gas pedal.
5. Allow it to warm up completely without touching the gas pedal.

Holding 3k rpm was for 2003+

Also I noticed Autolite spark plugs. Hondas seem to work better on NGK or Denso. Lots of stories about other plugs, but not my own firsthand experience.

 

Hmm, I know enough to talk intelligently. I figured just this morning that we repleced the "bypass solenoid". Too many solenoids and valves to fit into my small brain. Can you point me to a video that teaches ILP or am I overthinking it?, my confusion is step 1

The P1457 code clearly indicated it is either a purge canister vent valve or purge solenoid...both not the part I bought.

Is there a video or any folks in the massachusetts area willing to help me ? You will be amazed at the distance I am ready to drive. Or I may bite the bullet and head to the dealership - my mechanic is not free for a couple of weeks and I cannot do much other than posting and researching

 

Could you put your car's information in your signature, so we don't have to go to your first post to find that information.

The 3rd pressure clutch switch causes P1739. I had a friend with a 99 V6 that had to replace the switch on the transmission. I suspect that if this code returns, then this can be one of your problems.

 

Hmm, I can see my signature on my last post(s). Don't you guys see it? I realized it a couple of days ago and edited my sig to add model/year/ and all the things I did in 2013

The code 1739 has returned since clearing it. I will order this part.

I dont want to blame this code on the First drain and fill done with Valvoline Maxlife ATF...what is interesting (co-incidence?) is the code P1739 showed up after 2-3 days (80-100 miles, 6-10 start/stops) of driving.

It is amazing how it all started and one thing has led to another over this summer - all because I decided to go out on a very hot summer afternoon and turn the keys. This car was rock-solid until that day, never a hint of a problem.

 

folks,

The car has been sititng in my driveway for the past couple of weeks waiting for John (mechanic) to free up.

I figured, I'd try changing the part myself. I cant seem to find the correct location of the 3rd clutch pressure switch and any instructions?

with regards to the idle, i may have posted earlier, it somehow seems to have started after the CEL came on and runs unusally normal when the CEL is turned OFF for the first day or 2...It is difficult to believe but somehow the P1457 and idle issues are connected to each other. (ericthecarguy on youtube seems to think so too as well)

thank you

 

This is for a four cyl.....can't remember if you have a 4 or 6?