need some advice! driving car 1000 miles
#11
My advice would be to fill-er up and get going. I've got a 97 Accord with 232,000 miles on the clock. She runs like a top and never gives me any troubles. Keep your fluids topped off and changed regularly and get that timing belt/water pump changed sometime soon and enjoy. I tell people, that I will now own a vehicle that I don't feel comfortable driving from coast to coast with no notice, and the Honda's have never let me down. Enjoy!
#12
thanks for the feedback and help! im going to bring a quart of oil, gallon of water, and hope for the best. im leaving jan.1 and ill update once i get back home. ill be praying i dont break down lol. thanks
#13
sorry for the late reply. the car ran perfect and smooth. not one problem other then the car wouldn't get warm. the needle stayed near the bottom. when i stopped at a gas station i would let the car idle and it would warm up to the middle but when i drove it went back down. thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#16
"antec121"-glad to here. Once again Jim has you on the way with the cooling.
Just wanted to add something. I've paid more attention to the tach since your post. In the 95-at 65 mph, once the converter "locks up" mine runs at 2,250. When "un-locked" it is at 2,500 - I know were only talking 250 rpm's but they add up. Do you feel/see the converter lockup....when was the last time your trans fluid was changed?
Just wanted to add something. I've paid more attention to the tach since your post. In the 95-at 65 mph, once the converter "locks up" mine runs at 2,250. When "un-locked" it is at 2,500 - I know were only talking 250 rpm's but they add up. Do you feel/see the converter lockup....when was the last time your trans fluid was changed?
#17
"antec121"-glad to here. Once again Jim has you on the way with the cooling.
Just wanted to add something. I've paid more attention to the tach since your post. In the 95-at 65 mph, once the converter "locks up" mine runs at 2,250. When "un-locked" it is at 2,500 - I know were only talking 250 rpm's but they add up. Do you feel/see the converter lockup....when was the last time your trans fluid was changed?
Just wanted to add something. I've paid more attention to the tach since your post. In the 95-at 65 mph, once the converter "locks up" mine runs at 2,250. When "un-locked" it is at 2,500 - I know were only talking 250 rpm's but they add up. Do you feel/see the converter lockup....when was the last time your trans fluid was changed?
that's what i'm thinking. Very easy fix
#18
As far as the trans-The "lock-up" can be felt (pay close attention) or be seen in the tach. With mine-EDIT (95 EX), when I get to crusing speed of around 60-65 MPH the tach will drop about 250 rpm's when the converter locks up. It is another one of my OCD things where I can feel a drop in rpm's like that...anyway.
If you've had the car for some time and put any kind of miles on it (check the manual for change interv) then I would suggest a drain and fill on the trans. If you've been longer than the rec interv then you might want to do a few (up to ~3) drain and fills-driving a few miles between-so you get a majority of the old fluid out.
If you've had the car for some time and put any kind of miles on it (check the manual for change interv) then I would suggest a drain and fill on the trans. If you've been longer than the rec interv then you might want to do a few (up to ~3) drain and fills-driving a few miles between-so you get a majority of the old fluid out.
Last edited by poorman212; 01-10-2011 at 08:40 PM. Reason: added
#19
As far as the trans-The "lock-up" can be felt (pay close attention) or be seen in the tach. With mine-EDIT (95 EX), when I get to crusing speed of around 60-65 MPH the tach will drop about 250 rpm's when the converter locks up. It is another one of my OCD things where I can feel a drop in rpm's like that...anyway.
If you've had the car for some time and put any kind of miles on it (check the manual for change interv) then I would suggest a drain and fill on the trans. If you've been longer than the rec interv then you might want to do a few (up to ~3) drain and fills-driving a few miles between-so you get a majority of the old fluid out.
If you've had the car for some time and put any kind of miles on it (check the manual for change interv) then I would suggest a drain and fill on the trans. If you've been longer than the rec interv then you might want to do a few (up to ~3) drain and fills-driving a few miles between-so you get a majority of the old fluid out.
#20
The lock-up feels a bit like the transmission is shifting, but it's a lot weaker than an actual shift.
Right about the ATF - you can only drain about 1/3 of the total fluid each time.
Get down in front of the right-front tire, looking under the car, towards the centerline of the car. The transmission drain plug has a square hole that accepts a 3/8 socket extension without any socket. Re-fill through the dipstick hole.
Honda ATF (not Dexron or not generic) a bit less than 3 quarts per drain/fill. After filling, check dipstick level with the car all warmed up but turned OFF. That's different than most other car companies who want you to check with the engine idling.
Right about the ATF - you can only drain about 1/3 of the total fluid each time.
Get down in front of the right-front tire, looking under the car, towards the centerline of the car. The transmission drain plug has a square hole that accepts a 3/8 socket extension without any socket. Re-fill through the dipstick hole.
Honda ATF (not Dexron or not generic) a bit less than 3 quarts per drain/fill. After filling, check dipstick level with the car all warmed up but turned OFF. That's different than most other car companies who want you to check with the engine idling.