Ordered a used ecm from eBay, car turns over fine and managed to reprogram the immobilizer to the ecm. However now I can't seem to shift the car out of park, everything else seems to be functioning fine
Its a 2003 Accord EX coupe, 4 cyl automatic transmission. I took off the shifter thinking it was the mechanism. Tried pressing down just the metal lead and it won't go down all the way.

 

Was the car not shifting out of park before you replaced the PCM?

 

No, the problem was the downstream O2 sensor transistor was blown after someone stole my cat. Everything else was working fine

 

Check the fuses; Under-hood Fuse No. 13 (20A) and Under-dash Fuse No. 21 (7.5A).

 

Gotcha, I'll check these out tomorrow.
21 would be for the IG meter and 13 would be passenger power seat recline, no?
My passenger seat is a manual, unless there's a electrical diagram somewhere ?

Also I used thinkcar diag, seems like the shift lock voltage doesn't go from low to high either regardless if pressed or not.
Only way I've found it shifts so far is to use a mini screwdriver into the manual release, which I really hate.
Car horn, brake lights, and reverse lights all seem to work.
Edit: No fault codes either to work with.

https://postimg.cc/gallery/SjM940v

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Hola, just an update. I switched the 7.5 amp fuse as it looked fried, no luck still was down, and the 20 amp fuse slot was empty so I don't think there was anything ever there. When I went in for my inspection after drive cycling for like 6 hours of the day, the shift wasn't moving throughout the entire day of my stopping at random places without the manual release. Right after the inspection it started moving freely, even now this morning when I got to the car it was moving freely. Not sure what caused this to happen, maybe my car was sitting in my backyard for 2 weeks because inspection was expired and the battery was weak ? Anyway it's working fine now. The issue now is I've driven 200 miles and my evap and egr is still inc, mainly concerned about EGR as it honestly should've been done by now. I drove from NY to Connecticut about twice now.
I failed and got a 10 day extension, I would love some tips on getting EGR to get ready Q_Q. I'm so tired of driving.

 

Per the shop manual to set EGR readiness:

Engine coolant temp sensor >176°F. Drive at steady speed 50-62 mph or above for more 10 seconds. Decelerate from 62+ mph by completely releasing the throttle for at least 5 seconds.


For EVAP.
Battery voltage >10.5V.
Engine at idle
ECT sensor between 176°F and 212°F.
MAP sensor less than 46.6 kPa
Vehicle speed 0 mph.
IAT sensor between 32°F and 212°F

The manual says to got into the scanner and select an evap test. If the test isn't complete, check for temporary DTCs. If no temporary error codes, one of the enable criteria wasn't met.

If you have a scanner that can read live data, check out these parameters to see if something is out of range to have the PCM do the test.

 

Thank you.
In pretty sure I've done all of these
​​​​​​My gas tank is also only between 40%-65% to be on the safe side when I do these.

Edit: FOR EVAP, DO I IDLE IN DRIVE OR PARK ? Although, I've done both, Red lights are crazy long in NY.
Here's a quick scan of idle though, so EVAP should be going through easy. Idled for about 10 minutes in my car after I got back from doing stuff.
https://postimg.cc/G82ZK4p3/258323af

I'm almost positive I've done, if that's all the EGR needs. I've done it multiple times. If anything I've gone down from 65 to 30ish without touching anything, which honestly takes a while.

I do have a question, I mainly drive my car local, so it doesn't see much travel aside from occasions like this where I do drive cycles. I had my battery checked at AutoZone yesterday and they stated it was good(Using the tester.), the battery itself is give or take about 5-5.5 years old. At most takes 2-3 revs in really cold weather. No corrosion in sight on the terminals. I don't know if the battery is reporting good because I drive so little or I've gotten very lucky with it. Do you believe I should replace it? Would this help resolve the EGR issue ?

Edit: I don't know if AutoZone workers know about cars much, one of the cashier's there suggested to clean the EGR valve for a fast ready. I don't know how much merit that holds since I have no colds, any idea on this ?

 

I remember driving my TSX around Houston on the large beltway with my blue-tooth scanner constantly refreshing the readiness monitors. It took a good 45 minutes to the get all but 2 readiness monitors to clear. Texas vehicles will pass inspection with 1 or 2 (can't remember) readiness monitors not passing.

I'd just drive the vehicle more over the next few days to see if you get all of them to clear. That information was pulled from the shop manual, so you may want to see if something is way off.

Has your car set any temporary engine codes, or is the check engine light turning on while driving?

 

No temporary codes that I see using the scanner, and I drove about 4 hours earlier. No check engine light flashed on while driving

Edit: 1/18 Managed to get the last one complete, thank you for all the help !