First, greetings to all. I have searched and already found some possible solutions to several issues with my new-to-me 2000 accord.

Car: 2000 accord SE, F23A4 ULEV, automatic. 150K miles. Granny owned, dealer serviced until ~120K. Son owned after that and driven occasionally. I just bought it from son. Great shape for NY. No rust, clean, everything works, but it has an occasional 1-2 shifting issue, and SRS and ABS lights on....

One thing I cannot quite figure out, how to get the TCU codes via the flashing D4 light. I believe I have read in several places that there is a service connector on most hondas, blue, behind glove box, that is to be shorted pins 1&2. This will cause the Check Engine and/or D4 lights to flash out the respective problems. I have used a scan tool a Advance Auto (a nice one) and have no "P" codes (at least none it can read). I wanted to be sure that there are no trans codes, since it has shifted "weird" 1 -> 2 a few times. I havent found the blue connector, and read on some other website that this year accord, you actually short two pins in the OBDII connector. I certainly dont want to do that until I know for sure which pins...

I intend to immediately start a trans fluid change - probably 3 of them over a week or two. I also will clean the screens on all the solenoids (4 of them right?, or are there more?). Im hoping that it just goes away after that, but thought getting any stored codes would be good. I was planning on using real honda fluid, if I can find it anywhere reasonably priced. If not, are there any acceptable alternatives? I read someplace that Valvoline Maxlife (DexMerc) is OK, and better with some additive (cant find it now).

One other thought is to check the TPS, Ive had that go on several other cars with the exact same symptoms, never have had a code for it show up, but replacing always has solved weird shifting on other cars.

I also have the SRS light on, which Im going to try and turn off via the memory erase connector (glad I found that).

Finally, while first driving the car, which needs new brakes bad (rotors shot, not sure about drums) I decided to pull the parking brake on a few times (low speed) just to check it out. After the 2nd pull, while driving, the ABS light came on. It has since gone out a couple times, but never for more than 10 miles, then its back on. Local parts store OBDII reader wont read the ABS codes... Im thinking perhaps the rear ABS sensors got loaded with "crap" from me pulling the brake while moving? Or is there a switch (E brake on) that may be stuck or something that will trigger ABS light?

Help with all of these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

ABS light will come on simply from pulling the handbrake while driving. I think only if it's for a long time or repeatedly. I think that should clear itself with time.

Pretty sure an OBD-2 code reader (AutoZone etc) will read trans codes. They're generally in the P17xx range. Get the code number, not just the guy's explanation.

 

ABS: OK, that does make some sense, since it came on IMMEDIATELY after the 2nd application of the handbrake. I see that the ABS sensors on the rear drums are at the BOTTOM, so any crud would also collect there. Have to do a complete brake job anyway, so will clean them all when I have it apart.

Codes: The Advance Auto reader was a nice one, and simply said "No DTC stored" - i.e. no codes (which may be a good thing).

I guess a change with Honda ATF-Z1 is probably the next place to go. Can anyone point me to a good explanation and/or diagram of all the solenoids and screens and where they are? Ive seen some pics of plugged screens, and I certainly want to be sure these are all cleaned, and new fluid. I can get a case of Z1 for $50 from a semi-local honda dealer.

Anyone with additional input, ideas, or help please chime in... Thanks.

 

Is the D4 light flashing when you are driving?

Also, search hpG3Sazz3GA on YouTube. This is how you short the OBD2 connector to get codes. I think that you can get ABS and SRS codes to flash this way as well.

 

Yeah, certainly clean the sensors when you're in there. They're magnetic, so metal shavings can stick to them. Look at the toothed-wheel & make sure it's not broken.