I'm on it, although I don't know how to/where to check the Injector resistor bank. I will check all connectors again, as well as the ECU fuses. Not sure if my scanner can read sensor data. I did not notice if I had a check engine light before the swap (my bad). Thank you, PAhonda !!!

 

I don't have the knowledge to check the Injector Resistor Bank, or what that even is, lol. I do know that I did Not remove/switch any connectors that came with the replacement (good running) motor.
The passenger side connectors, by the shock mount, are all unique and cannot be mis-connected. (There is a 4th extra plug that came with the new motor however, and guessing it was because the donor motor is from an automatic going into a 5-speed).
I don't know if the CEL light worked before the swap.
All fuses on this car are good.
I am about to read the manual on my scanner to see if it can check sensors.
Thank you so much!

 

The injector resistor is on the driver's side of the engine bay near the windshield.

I attached a picture. The plug for the injector resistor should have 5 red/blk wire going to it. I am sure there is another identical connector that you can switch.

I am also pretty sure there are two plugs that are identical on the passenger side of the engine bay by that shock tower. My previous car was the 95 5-speed, so it is very similar to your accord.

 

Well, I have triple checked the connectors, passenger side at the shock tower. There are 3 and all different and cannot be mixed up. ( would have been nice tho if that's all it was, lol.) I did find the injector resistor, ( and thanks for the pic). It does have the 5 wires and is plugged in correctly, although it might be bad. Were that bad, can that cause the motor to not Rev over 2800 rpms ? (It runs so nicely up to that point). I had read on another post where someone was having the same issue after swapping motors, and the advice was that the injector resistor and ecm Must match those particular injectors. Hmmm???. Another couple posts on this problem was repaired with a new crank sensor, and yet another with a new catalytic converter. More hmmm???
I sure do appreciate All the advice I am getting. How Awesome!

 

You do have two threads floating around on this - I would merge them but I'm worried that would just get more confusing.

Redbull asked a question in your other one about the engine swap - Trim level of the current car and the one the engine came out of. Also there are some differences in engines in the 5th gen's (94-97). Mainly the 96-97 engines are OBD-II and the 94-95 are OBD-I.

I've been thinking what all could be/go wrong with this swap and you have ruled out many of the common engine change "mis-steps".

A bit of a ramble so I can get a few things out of my head.

Car will idle fine (engine hot or cold). Car will accel up to the ~2800 rpm fine (hot or cold)?

It is a 96 which is OBD-II and picks up on way more than an OBD-I car. There are no codes stored or pending.

MAP and TPS wires/connectors seem to be in the right place.

G101 is connected and clean and tight.

Firing order is correct (1-3-4-2), #1 wire on the cap should have a marking on it - "a" with a circle or something like that.

What went wrong with the old engine?

What parts/pieces had to be moved to the new engine from the old one - exhaust manifold, this that (?).

Compression test on the new engine shows (?) what on each cyl.

 

1996 Accord Motor swap

No Honda time today; other jobs. But, I have ALL day tomorrow on it !

Firstly, sorry about the two threads. The second one Ithought originally was gonna be about Only a NO CEL light and possible bad ECUand if that was what was the issue with the limited REVS to 2800 rpms.

That said, here are my short version anwers to some pending questions:

-Both Accords are confirmed 1996 LX’s with F22B2 engines. Mine is a 5-spd, the donor engine is out of an Automatic.
-The donor engine came with an intake and harness attached, so I installed it that way.
-I have several times confirmed that the harness connectors at the passenger shock tower as well as the Injector resistor are connected correctly.
-ECMs have Not been switched, as I figured an automatic’s ECM could Not run a 5-speed.
-I am using my same 5-speed transmission.
-CEL Never comes on, perhaps bad bulb, etc), and scanner says there are no codes.

Poorman212; Hondaddy responses...

Car will idle fine (engine hot or cold). Car will accel up to the ~2800 rpm fine (hot or cold)?-YES

It is a 96 which is OBD-II and picks up on way more than an OBD-I car. Thereare no codes stored or pending. -CORRECT

MAP and TPS wires/connectors seem to be in the right place.-YES

G101 is connected and clean and tight. WHAT/WHERE IS G101?

Firing order is correct (1-3-4-2), #1 wire on the cap should have a marking onit - "a" with a circle or something like that.-YES

What went wrong with the old engine?-PREVIOUS OWNER SPUN THE BOTTOM END MAIN BEARINGS, CRANK WAS TOAST.

What parts/pieces had to be moved to the new engine from the old one - exhaustmanifold, this that (?).–NEW ENGINE CAME WITH INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDS ATTACHED AND THE HARNESS. IT DIDN’T COME WITH A THROTTLE BODY, COIL OR DISTRIBUTOR, SO SWAPPED THEM OVER.

Compression test on the new engine shows (?) what on each cyl.–WILL HAVE TO GET INDIVIDUAL COMPRESSIONS TOMORROW, BUT THE RANGE WAS FROM 160-170 PSI

My Tomorrow plan of attack; I will check for a ‘rpms repair’ after each step.
-Swapping the Injector Resistor with a borrowed one from a 1996 LX
-Checking to see if the Catalytic converter is bad/plugged.
-Cleaning out the EGR passage ways on the intake
-Doing a fuel pressure check
-Rechecking Compression
-Swapping the harness back to the one that originally came with the car. (a local Honda mech told me today that the harness originally belonging to my 5-spd MUST REMAIN with the car, and that, although plugs will connect, some pins,/wires are different from the Automatic). Hmmm???
-Yanking the instrument cluster to see if I have a bad CEL Bulb, test for gnd/juice getting to the bulb from ECM during first 3 seconds of ignition switch to 'run' position




Ok, that’s it, (and plenty) for now, lol. Its sleep time !


Thank you all again very, very much. Back with ya tomorrow

 

Update on compression, ( had given readings for other 1996 accord recent head job). This one is: #1=200, #2=190, #3=195, #4=200.

 

Well, it's getting better, but not fixed yet. I worked my 'list' in my last post but didn't get to swapping harnesses yet or the CEL light. However I did find the EGR rail/passageways clogged solid. That didn't fix the RPM issue tho. The good news is that now it has finally, repeatable sends me a code P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor, and I just happen to have a spare. Should know something in a couple hours. Yippy !

 

HALLELUJAH !!! Fixed the mysterious 'no over 2800 rpm' problem. It indeed was the crank sensor, in which it's plastic housing was apparently cracked just enough and barely out of place to still run with No Codes, but still was triggering the rpm issue. But, finally it gave way completely where I found it just hanging there, and finally triggering the P0335 crank sensor code.
I am so relieved, and very, very grateful for All the outpouring of assistance offered to me on this forum. I will be willing to answer any questions that anyone has, as I will continually check in daily on this thread.
Be well everyone, be abundant, and thanks Again, Hondaddy

 

Ahh. a big smile from me that another Honda is back on the road

Thank you for letting us know how it worked out, too many times we never know the end of the story.......and I'm sorry for the "run around" but thankful it worked out in the end.

It is not fun to pull the gauge cluster to get to the CEL bulb but I would put it on the list - some states will not pass the car on inspection if it does not work. PS, while there -since it is not fun to pull it, I would replace about as many as I could get to.....or at least drive the car at night and be sure all of the "over head" bulbs are working.