Hello,

For starters i bought a 1991 Honda Accord that had been sitting for 4 months a few weeks back. I had to put a new coil pack in the distributor new spark plugs and cables, and put in a fuel rail. After replacing all of this i was not getting any fuel. I ended up cleaning the ground wire under the thermostat and i ended up getting fuel. The care ran great for a little over a week. Almost 2 weeks ago I was driving the car home to pick up my son and i was getting an increase in power for a second and then it would go away then do it again. It did that only a couple of times on my way to my house which is about a 30 minute drive. I left the car running while i got my son ready and left and went where were going. 4-5 hours later i go out to take my son back home and the car wont start. I am not getting fuel press or spark. I have already replaced the main relay and still have no spark or fuel pressure. Ive checked the distributor and everything looks to be fine with it. I cant hear the fuel pump kick on when i take the key to "on" but i cant hear it in my friends 1992 accord either. Ive been checking the grounds throughout the motor compartment and the only thing i have found is a slightly chaffed wire going into the throttle position sensor. Would this possibly cause a no fuel/no spark condition? Please help these gas prices are killing me in my truck...

 

That is strange that you are getting both no spark and no fuel pressure. How are you testing for both?

When the car does not start, does the starter turn the engine? Have you had the battery tested or tried jumper cables on the battery?

When you turn the key to the II position, check that the blk/yel wire going to the distributor is getting 12V.

You can try the same voltage test on the yel/blk wire that is near the access cover in your trunk. There is a 3-pin connector in the trunk. You do not have to remove that access cover. That wire should get 12V for about two seconds when you turn the key to the II position. It may be easier to use a 12V test light.

 

PAhonda,
The starter turns the motor like there isnt anything wrong. Matter of fact thats all it will do is sit there and turn the motor. The battery is good im keeping it charged with a trickle charger given the strain im putting on it everytime i try to start the car. The car continues to do the same thing even when hooked up to jumper cable to 2011 Dodge Ram. Im checking for power with a multimeter but im not very familiar with using one. I will go pick up a test light just to make it easier and make sure im not screwing it up. I was able to check the cables in the trunk with the multimeter and as far as i could tell i wasnt getting any power to it, but take in mind i was using the multimeter so i likely could have messed it up. I will difinitely pick up a test light though just so i can make sure i did it right. I will post weather or not i am getting power to the distributor and the pump later on today.

 

This is more confusing than what i expected, I haven't been in such situation ever, whatever PAhonda said, that's all what was in my mind and if it didn't work out for you then i guess you should get help of a mechanic it is better to show it to an expert than making it even more worse..
Sorry unfortunately i couldn't help you out..

 

Good luck.

One way to test your volt meter is to see if you read around 12V when you touch the volt meter leads to the battery terminals.

 

There are just so many different symbols on the meter, it makes me crazy.I hope the test light works when i get it later today.

 

here is the update. I went and picked up a 12v test light. I have power to both the pump and the distributor. on the other hand with the key in "II" i am not getting any reading power on the throttle position sensor with either the multimeter (which i verified is working properly) or with the test light. am i suppose to get power to the throttle position sensor in the II position and would that cause the no fuel and no spark condition?

 

I would check for codes on the car. See the writeup in the DIY section on how to check CEL codes. Also check for transmission code(s). Either the D4 or the S (sport shift light) will flash those codes.

The fuel pressure is controlled by the main fuel relay which you already replaced and the ignition switch. I just want to make sure you replaced the correct relay. Copy and paste the link below to see what I am talking about.

techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelaydefine.html

If you probe the outside pins on the throttle position sensor, you should have 5V to ground. If not, probe each outside wire and use a good ground like a valve cover bolt to see if you can read voltage. The + wire may be yel/wht (I am using a manual that I downloaded that covers non-US 93 accords).

Make sure you have the scale set properly on the DC voltage. 20 DCV will read from 2-20 volts accurately. The 5V may not light up a 12V test light.

 

I checked the outside connector that goes to the throttle position sensor, is that what you mean by "outside wire"?

 

There are three wires. The first test says to test for voltage between two wires. The middle wire on the connector is not the one you will test, it is the two outside wires.