I'm having trouble with getting spark from my 90 Accord. I picked up a used distributer and decided to swap the igniter, still no spark. I tried to remove both ignition coils on my distributer as well as the one I just picked up, the screws are extremely hard to get out especially on the round terminal. The one on my car is stripped but the other one is still in decent shape. Any tips on getting these out or am I going to have to cut, solder, and heat shrink. Btw, 507K on it. Thanks

 

before you start rplacing parts you should take some time to diagnose what actually is wrong with the car ........

to remove the small coil wire screws ,, do you have a needle nose vise grips ??? ig not you might hve to hit the screw with a small punch and hammer,,, If all fails cut and resolder it ..

 

Possiable crankshft position sensor problem, take it out and take it to AutoZone, they can check it for you..
WheelBrokerAng

 

I got the Hanes manual out this morning, I checked the resistance on terminals B and F of the crank sensor, got a reading of 340 ohms, manual says should read between 350 to 700 ohms. Also checked for continuity to ground on all terminals, the manual says there shouldn't be continuity on any of the terminals. I read 850 ohms on terminal A, the rest had no continuity. Also checked the TDC sensor on terminals C and G while I was at it got a reading of 341 ohms.

 

I got that screw out of both coils, I took the screw out of the square terminal first to get it out of the way then I used a pair of regular mini vise grips to get the other started. I figured since I had the spare coil and igniter kicking around I may as well try them anyway, still no spark. I checked the coil resistance on the primary and secondary, I got 1.2 ohms and 10.6K respectively. With regards to the igniter I have battery voltage on the black/yellow wire to ground as well as the white/blue to ground.

 

i want you to try a quick test,,,,,,,,,,,first off reconnect everything, and hook up all the wires to coil and ignitor,, leave the distributor cap off......

Now use a test lite, put the ignition key on,, chk for power on coil pos and neg wires you shoud have power on both ,, put the test lite on the coil neg side and a good ground, have someone crank the engine, if the test lite pulses you got a bad coil ..if it does not pulse you got a bad ignitor ...
if you did not have power on both wires at the coil , start by checking the connections at distributor ,,,

 

I called a local mechanic, he loaned me a working distributer to try in my car. It went with the first crank. Turned out that the used one I bought had a faulty coil as well as my own. I took the coil out of his and put it in mine, I used the car all evening and it worked great. I was told that the Ohmmeter tests don't provide a whole lot of reference for testing a coil as the two I had seemed to test ok. Thank you to all who responded, I appreciate the help.
Brian

 

Brian: on a side note there have been a few posts/findings with honda's and bosch plugs blowing your coil.... It doesn't always do it right away but if you run bosch plugs it's like tossing a razor sharp knife up in the air and catching... it may not cut you everytime, heck you may get away with it for a while but you're going to get cut at some point.... Switch to NGK.... Are you by chance using bosch?

 

A mechanic told me many moons ago, never use anything but NGK plugs in an import. I never forgot that.

 

damn straight