no, haven't tested it yet.
can i just use a multimeter and test cabels from one end to the other or is it more complicated than that to test it?

Edit: found this, gona try remove it and see if i can find something wrong with it with the help of this site: http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignit...ch.html#Repair

Once again thanks for all the help i'm getting, wonderful site.
First time i try to fix something this complicated on my own
But i like being able to repair stuff myself even if it might take some time.

 

Yep that is the one from yesterday. There is a lot of good info on there for that gen and a few others. At the very top, to the left you can see the different testing procedures. So if the switch tests out, move to the Ignition Problem section.

 

Looks like the switch tests out.
Moving on to ignition section...
here is a picture of the switch btw, if ur interested not the best quality but what the hell

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/9598/ignswitch.jpg

 

Hi again

I'm not quite sure how to check if the ECU box is working, but i belive it's working.

The guide talks about "check engine" light but i don't seem to have any such light, probably cause i live in europe.
It also talks about an error code from a led light. I'm not getting any error code so i guess it's working allright. It only blinks once when i turn power on (II) and then it blinks once again when i try to start the car (III).

Tomorrow i'm gona try replacing the distributor cap and rotor.
Also before i do that i'm gona try see if i can figure out how to test the ignition coil which is built into the distributor.

Found a service manual for a accord -91 should be allmost same as what i got.

Btw: what do you estimate it would cost to buy (ignition coil) + (distributor cap) + (rotor) ?

 

Hi again.

Today i have ordered new distributor cap, ignition coil and a new rotor.
They will arrive tomorrow.

But i ran into an other problem now when i removed the camshaft cover on the engine to seal it with some paste so oil wouldn't get to the sparkplugs.
When i was going to put the cover back one of the bolts snapped
Here is a picture of it.

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/9...0920140005.jpg

Do you thing 3 bolts out of 4 is enough to hold the cover in place or do i have to replace the pin which snapped? This would really suck sence i don't have the tools or knowledge how to replace it.
Atm. i have put the cap on there without the bolt and put some paste around it to seal it so oil woun't leak out.

 

It'll probably leak. And it shouldn't be that difficult to replace.
Either #16 or #17, whichever one's broken. You can probably grab the broken one with vice-grips or something, remove it, put a new one in.


Then don't over-tighten it. :-)

 

Thanks for the tip jimblake.

Oh btw, what is the "pin" called sence i have to find a new one it would help to know what it's called.

 

I've removed the bolt now, i think it's called a "valve cover bolt"
Here is a pic of it
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/1...0920190055.jpg

 

Probably there's not enough price-difference for you to go anywhere other than the dealer. I'm guessing less than $10? Just take the broken one along, maybe print out that picture.

Look in the DIY section for a post about on-line manuals. Get one from something near 1992. Look up the procedure for removing the camshaft for tightening torque. You'll need both the torque to install that bolt into the camshaft bearing cap, and also the (kinda low) torque for the little acorn nut to hold down the valve cover.

 

Hello again.

Today i've installed the new ignition coil, new distributor cap and a new rotor.
Then i tried to crank the engine but still no spark.
Also removed one of the spark plug wires and put it near a ground bolt on the chassi and tried to crank, but no spark there eighter.

-And the keyswitch checks out aswell.
-Fuelpump is working.
-ECU seems to be working.

Now the only thing i could think about now is one of the wires are broken somewere?

Any ideas?